Discussion in 'The "Pure" Stockers' started by Donny Brass, Jun 30, 2008.
I made a list you are on........ just have not had time to format and post it yet.
Donny that was all tongue in cheek! Unless you're planning a spoof list, I don't need to be published!
too late now........
The DFX SUCKS !!!! At least for me- It chattered- Slipped- vibrated- No pedal pressure -and cost me alot of time and agravation!:rant: :rant:
The Salesman basically told me it was the best thing since sliced bread.But when I called back,the same salesman there told me it was way to much clutch for my car ??????o No: o No:
Sent it back to be checked out and they said one of the straps that holds the pressure plate was bad. Ate a new flywheel -Slipped like crazy @ Martin this year....
They did warranty it for me though, I just went back to the old tried and true Centerforce Dual Friction.
Ohh and don't use the adjustable pivot, not long enough for that bell.( you won't get enough pedal travel once in the car. Order the solid long truck pivot ball 70s- 80s chevy trucks ,you will be MUCh happier.
So Good luck Joe .ray:
Ya was wondering if anybody else had any luck. One of these days I might build a small block 4 speed car
Thanks very much for posting! Today - the car still isn't done.
Now realize I am using a steel flywheel, supplied by my engine builder (From Performance Racing Warehouse). It "seems" that there is enough pedal travel - the flywheel seemed a little thicker. I actually have the linkage where I can get through all of the gears including reverse. The shift collar works with the reverse actuation. Just a little binding and the shifter is a little lower, where the gears are further back - I seem to like it like the position, if not the binding.
The clutch fork adjustment rod was original. I had to adjust it so the clutch pedal had good return. Of course, the Lakewood bellhousing prevented that shaft from engaging the clutch fork. I had to cut an ear off of the bellhousing (don't tell SFI) to have the rod hit the Lakewood clutch fork properly. So - when I hit the clutch the rod was bending; when I pushed the clutch pedal to the floor - SNAP went the rod! Better on a lift than the street or track.
So - other than sourcing a stock rod is there any source for a stronger rod? The original rod was original somewhat corroded.
Where's my fellow Poncho man-pedal brothers? Glasgos - help!
Where can I source that pivot ball - just in case I do need it?
With the lakewood bell and fork, the fork was hitting the floorpan at full travel.The fork is MUCH wider and beefier so it pushes it up higher-hits and rides on the bell opening. That's why I went to the longer pivot(higher pivot ratio) Mine was with a steel flywheel to, tried the alum.route once .Didn't like it. I use a 25# steel. Glad yours is working and Fits.
If you do need the ball -and OLD parts store NOT Autozone with some pimple faced kid on a computer. Or the Chevy dealer can get it.
The real man pedal is the one on the right side.:blast:
Spent the day at the track with my boyz today. Two more 12.80's for Owen!
The 'ol Dave H Ram Rod always brought out the best in my Vette. Guess that's why they made the list the same year. :beer:
Guess I'll have to run one of them thar otter-matics one of these years.
a little something for the automatic "guys" who feel left out:
Owen should be at #4 12.90 right off the trailer on Friday......
just got wait for the official paper work
I just realized when I did the lists I had been excluding a small block car from the Fastest List......
and now there not only a 350 Chevy on this list, but also a pair of 304.5 Cubic Inch Studes on it.....
It's got a 4 hitter(man pedal) . Nice info !
statistical oddity: the cars ar 16-20 stayed the same.........
sorry for the three year delay... I've been busy
Jimmy Johnston actually holds the top 8 positions on the Big Block man pedal list if you counted each year's best run.