The million question man part 28 (sanding)

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by EEE, Jan 4, 2005.

  1. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    Hi, I'm sorting out my trunk since it keeps raining in to it and sooner or later things will get worse in there then they are. My plans are to remove the rust and then prime it with rust protecting primer and then put a coating of black enamel paint on it. All by the can stuff, any other recommendations regarding the coating?

    - What tools are good for sanding rust? Is there a particular sanding pad you recommend that you can put on a electric drill or similar? Numbers on the sanding papers you might want to use? Steel brushes? Any other particular tool you've found useful for this kind of stuff.

    - There is a plastic/rubber/? adhesive that's been used to cover up certain parts of the trunk floor and where two parts cometogether. Is this standard stuff or has someone put it in there afterwards, what is it?

    - Any other suggestion in general, I thought I'd post this so I'm not spending time and moey in the wrong place.

    Many thanks for the help... always appreciated..
     

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  2. mechacode

    mechacode Well-Known Member

    After you sand all the rust off, you could go with a light coat of truck bed liner. It'll probably last forever and keep stuff from sliding around if you keep it from rusting through from the bottom.
     
  3. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Por 15!
     
  4. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    ?.
     
  5. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    POR-15

    Worked great on my Riviera, stopped the rust in the quarters dead in its tracks. But like they say you MUST follow all directions.

    They make kits that are specific to each area of the car, like the trunk. POR-15 Trunk Kit Goodluck :TU:
     
  6. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Sorry Kimson...I forgot to link the site:laugh:

    Thanks for the backup Rob!
     
  7. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    Holy moly that's too advanced for me.

    # MARINE-CLEAN Metal cleaner
    # METAL-READY Metal Prep
    # Power Mesh Fabric
    # POR-15 Silver
    # POR-15 Black
    # EPOXY PUTTY
    # CHASSISCOAT BLACK
    # POR-15 SOLVENT
    # All brushes needed (4)
    # Safety face mask
    # Latex gloves
    # Dispensing scoop
    # Detailed instructions

    @ 120$

    I'm leaning a little bit more towards the improviced version of solving things for now. I'm sorry, too much $ for fixing the trunk, some time in the future maybe.
    I thought a thorough sanding, rust repellent primer and then the hard enamel paint would be a good combo, I'll have to stick to that for this one.

    Many thanks for the help anyway.

    Cheers
     
  8. GSXER

    GSXER Well-Known Member

    Have a look in Hemmings Mag theres this stuff called CHassis Saver same stuff as POR 15 but a lot less.Easiest way to knock the rust out is grab a good drill with a coarse wire wheel and go for it.
     
  9. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    It's home depot tonight, one "coarse wire wheel " coming this way.
     
  10. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    Kimson,
    I had the same problem on my Century. After I cleaned it up I gave it two generous coats of Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It chemicaly reacts with the rust to convert it into a primer coat. I then gave it a good coat of regular Rustoleum grey primer. Its holding up great to this day. One nice thing about rustoleum is that it has a rust preventative in the mix.
     
  11. EEE

    EEE Straight out of lo-cash!

    "Rustoleum Rust Reformer", sounds interseting... I'm afraid I missed that one, just went with the wire wheel, got off as much rust as I could, not perfetct, but better than before, and then the rust-oleum metal rust covering primer and black rust-oleum enamel paint. It said i was the best stuff for metal, so we'll see. It looks pretty good, but time will tell, right now it's raining in to the trunk, and it's been doing so for the whole day. I'll go out there with a rag when I go and rent a movie.

    Many thanks for the help, and I'll keep "Rustoleum Rust Reformer" in mind next time. I think it will be the metal parts surrounding the windshield, feels like they're up next.
     
  12. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member



    Keep in mind that this should only be used on surface type rust. If the rust has penetrated the metal then obvously (sp) it needs to be replaced. If the rust is flaking just wire wheel or brush it to remove the loose flacking rust and give it a couple of good coats.
     
  13. evil16v

    evil16v Midwest Buick Mafia

    I've used both rustoleum and por 15. rustoleum works great. but.. it will stilll bubble up given enough moisture. por gets harder with moisure. far superior and different product. goes a long way. damn if you can get it off anything after it dries. If you can't absolutely get rid of ALL the rust (you won't), save your money and get the por. this is the best solution. you don't have to use all the other companion products. just remove as much rust as possible, degrease, rough any smooth areas, and make certain it is absolutely dry before applying. this stuff loves a sand blasted or rusty pitty surface. soaks up like a paper towel.
     
  14. 1967 Big Buick

    1967 Big Buick One day at a time.

    Do you have access to a compressor? or do you have one?
     
  15. crazyjackcsa

    crazyjackcsa Big and Untame

    Por 15 spent a week on my hands! and a long time on my gas tank!
     

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