The Truth About Oil - article

Everyone needs to read this:
The Truth About Oil Part 1

http://performancebiz.com/features/t...out-oil-part-i

Part 2

http://performancebiz.com/features/t...ut-oil-part-ii

Part 3

http://performancebiz.com/features/t...t-oil-part-iii

Part 4 - How much Zinc is in your oil?

http://performancebiz.com/features/b...ut-oil-part-iv

after you read these, you'll never add ZDDP to your oil...

 

Links don't work just takes me to some blog site

 

Yea the links are screwed up. But you posted the same links which work in another thread - I think it was about ZDDP additives. I read the article and they make a good case on why using ZDDP additives is a waste of time. They say you just need the correct oil in the first place. However, the articles don't tell you much on finding these correct oils. I did a quick search just now and I found some candidates:

Classic Car motor oil
Amsoil V-Rod
Hemmings motor oil
Quaker State Defy

Anybody heard of/use these oils?

 

A friend just dropped a new Kaase 547 in his street rod. Mr. Kaase said to use Joe Gibbs 'Driven' or for economy (on a 10 qt oil change!) to use Rotella. The car (with the old 'small' 514 and the new improved mill) gets driven a lot-break in on the new engine was the trip from Atlanta to Daytona.
Patrick

 

So what is wrong with ZDDP that I will never want to use it after reading the articles?

 

http://performancebiz.com/features/truth-about-oil-part-i

http://performancebiz.com/features/truth-about-oil-part-ii

http://performancebiz.com/features/truth-about-oil-part-iii

http://performancebiz.com/features/blog-truth-about-oil-part-iv

 

I wish there was a comprehensive list of safe oils for my car somewhere. This is way too complicated for me. Maybe I should just use the Brad Penn without the additional bottle of ZDDP and I will be fine.

 

I'm pretty active on the Corvette Forums (I have a 61 and a 79 Corvette), and there has been much discussion about oil over there. In everything I've read, Valvoline VR-1 is the best all around choice for a flat tappet, street driven car. 20w50 is available in most parts stores, and 10w30 can be ordered from amazon.com. They make conventional and synthetic.

Despite being advertised as a racing oil, it is a 3,000 mile oil change normal street oil, but forumlated to work with flat tappet engines and has a good amount of ZDDP. It also outperforms almost every other oil in wear protection tests performed by a member of that forum (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...56-motor-oil-wear-test-and-lab-test-data.html). Between those tests, the ZDDP, being formulated for flat tappet engines, and being readily available in parts stores, this has been my oil of choice.

I have 6 flat tappet engines in cars that are driven on a regular basis, and this is all I use in them.

 

Brad Penn (Kendall) The original. Still the best . Zinc enriched oil only comes from Pennsylvania Crude. Green oil

 

Google Brad penn where to get in Pennsylvania . When the Map comes up and shows all the locations. Most of them are engine Builders/ Machine shops. (what does that tell you)

 

It tells me the we are using the right oil, Steve.

 

I didn't know that green stuff was still available. Thanks for the post. We just had this argument the other night because I have been using Rotella 15w-40 in all my vehicles since the 90's. The guy(who lost a case of coors light) said it was low in zinc and should not be used in flat tappet engines. I told him he was FOS because the zinc content was only beaten by some of the 20w-50 racing oils. Namely the original Kendall 20w-50 that was green in color. I could not find it locally so I opted for the Rotella. I was also able to buy the Rotella at TSC on sale for less than $3.50 a quart. I still think the Kendall is a higher quality and so do many of the large cam manufacturers. Some of the "not so big" cam guys also liked green stuff. Reed cams who used to grind for a lot of winning racers swore by it and recommended it on their builds. If it is still out there,I would use it. I really like the Rotella and it is in a lot of diesels with a million miles of road time,but the high revvers would benefit from the original Kendall oil.

 

I've heard they did lower the Zinc/Phosphorus levels in Rotella for emissions on the late model diesels.

 

You have to use the 15w-40 triple protection with a CI4 PLUS rating on the label. Good point because there are different weights and formulas available now. It is usually cheaper to buy in the 2.5 gallon containers through TSC. I think it is less money than anything that compares in zinc content,and is endorsed by Crane Cams also.

 

Got to read the label (Re: The Truth About Oil - article)

Dear dmruschell, scubasteve455, Jerry, schlepcar, and V-8 Buick engine caregivers,

It is important to realize that motor oil is just another one of those very competitive markets like car wax. the competitors are always looking each others shoulders and I assume analyzing the competitor's products in their own chemical labs. So I don't think you should expect products that are created for a particular niche market to differ by all that much. What is terribly important is that the oil you use for your "mature" engine is formulated for what the engine was designed for. Definitely go back and read the articles that are referenced at the beginning of this thread. Another thread worth reading is this one on new oil technology:

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?222499-New-Oil-tech

Once you understand what your engine needs, then you can read the label and make sure it is a product that will prolong the life of your engine instead of killing it.

Cheers, Edouard

 

When they did a report on this subject on a local news network I got a real education. They went to the "experts" at a quick change and filled the space with a lot of factory recommendations. The reality is,...my Saturn Ion turned 330,000 miles and I sold it two years ago to a guy who lives by me. My Lesabre has 300k,my Tahoe has 300k....All using 15-40 Rotella. You can buy royal purple,amsoil,valvoline racing, etc.....but you won't get it for $3.50 per quart and you will probably run it twice as far as I do before changing filters. So......is it better to go 6,000 miles on a $50 oil change or 3,000 miles on a $20 oil change. I would say that it is definitely an oil that will save your bottom end and flat tappet cams. The best bang for the buck. The factory would have everyone using 5w-30 because they know that will keep the bearings slippery until the warranty runs out. Take apart a 500k motor that ran Rotella and you will see what the experts are not telling you.

 

I would have to say that we may be on two different conversations. Rotella is the best that I have found for what I call normal to moderate driving conditions. I use it in my 401 Buick,455 Pontiac,and daily drivers. These motors never see 4500 rpms and they are usually changed every few thousand miles. The oil is somewhat glued to the bearings when you disassemble a high mile Rotella engine. Lighter weight oils that may or may not sludge are often too light and the bearings have no feel at all and look worn and even dry at tear down. Back to your conversation,which is relevant to anyone who has a 8,000 rpm motor,15w-40 or even 20w-50 is costing you horsepower. If you are primarily twisting it up,you need to consider the more expensive oils. Gibbs,Kendall,Royal Purple.....are all good products. I like the Mobil Synthetics also. I do not use Rotella in my 476 bbc. I think it depends on what and when you are using it for. I will say that a motor that spins four rod bearings at the same time probably had other issues. Rotella is used in vehicles pulling 80,000 lbs down the road without bearing failures, so I would be curious as to what those bearings looked like.