hey guys i know, J.W. i know you would know the answer to this question, I'm looking into going 4-link prostreet, and i wanna get ideas on what and how it could be done, where i could get the stuff, I would be doing the work myself, welding, fitting, cutting, all that stuff would be covered, i just need to know how to got with it, pics of cars that have been prostreeted, step by step progress would be great:TU: bring on the website links:TU:
PRO STREET Just went thru this with Jim the other day. Went over pricing and what needs to be done, how, and what it would take. I love my buick to death, but from day one, I have always wanted a prostreet big tire car. So I am trying to go forward with this direction. Now, there are guys out there who run fast without tubbing their cars, they just have perfect suspension setups. It is a personal reason I want to tub my car. A couple of things I have learned after mulling this over. 1) Do it right the first time. It may cost a bit more, but once it's done correctly, you're done. That's it. No games. 2) Alot of the guys like Mark Williams stuff, along with competition Engineering, they seem to have all the bugs worked out of their products and their kits are custom fit, which makes things nice. Sometime prefabbed kits could be longer here, and shorter here, since everybodie's cars vary a bit from each other, this function is nice. 3) Good Parts alone with a 14 point cage will cost you almost $9000. But this is more towards the high end with light chromoly and a custom fitted roll cage setup. 4) Since you got guys to help you with the work you can save on install, but add another $5000 for somebody to do it for you. 5) Depending on down the road what type of motor you run, you may want to get your chassis certified. You will need to figure out what they want and look for to have your chassis pass. 6) The little stuff is gonna be what nickle and dimes ya to death. I would TIG weld it if you could. That's about it. You're right on your thinking by going with a 4 link since your starting from scratch. I believe that setup has the most tunability, but guys are running fast with ladder bars also. There's nothing better than seeing something with steamrollers in my opinion.
You could spend some time looking around here. We use a lot of Chassisworks stuff in the shop. If it's to just be a Pro-Street car, and not a serious racer, then go with the poly rod end setup, it will ride a lot better. Eliminator 2 4 link is one of the best setups on the market now, in my opinion. And have a healthy bank account. JW
I have been collecting things over the years so I could tub out my 70 GS.It is expensive but,I will eventually get it done.There are a few places in Pa. that sell the suspensions to either tub your car or put a 4 link or ladder bar suspension into your car.Try S&W or there is another place in Danville called Auto Weld.If I were you, I would get all the catalogs you could get to see the different prices as well as different setups.Chassis Engineering and Art Morrison are good sources too.I want to retain the factory look with my 70 so,I sent some Buick 15x7 ralley wheels to Stockton Wheel to have them widened to 15x14.This alone cost me 320 bucks.It isn't cheap but,to me its worth it.You could really get some serious bucks tied up quick. Pat
One question for now, what is the intended usage of the car once it's been completed? I'll try to post some stuff before too long, but right now I gotta go to bed!
well guys if im prostreeting it, its gonna be serious race!!!! but not all at one shot work my way to it, but the goal is to go 6 seconds on alcohol, all buick:TU:
forgot that Chassisworks. Jim made a great point to me about the difference between the anti roll bar setups between chassisworks and an artmorrison kit. Where the art kit would bind up the suspension and mess up the angles, the chassisworks kit flows freely. Yeah, forgot to add Chris Alston's CHAISSISWORKS TO THE EQUATION
Whoa.... I just built an 8 second GS... with a pricetag of around $75-80K.. if we had to do it from scratch.. Figure a little more than half that as labor. Add another 10 K to that for what it would take to build the car you want.. at least.. JW
Wow...... there won't be much original GS sheet metal left if you plan on a 6 sec car. Fiberglass panels, plexiglass windows..... it's going to add up real quick. I think VFN it was that has a lot of the panels and bumpers. I hope yo are planning on one of the new iron or aluminum blocks to be out soon. I don't see our good old iron blocks holding up to that much power....... Mike
Sounds more like Pro-stock than Pro-street! :grin: I would say buy a roller car (25 to 50K used) and have at it. If you are hard headed (like me!) and must have a Buick body, I wish you well! :beer
well this will be a father son project, and all the labor will be covered, no cost in labor, just for the parts, see i don't have a 455, so what will probably do is start out with the 350 that i have, but beings that the body is in the stage that its in now, it would be best to set the body/frame and rear up now, then just add the 455, sorry 535 on alcohol, debating on going blown or custom intake, high riser, but the baddest guys run on alcohol, so that's what it will be built for oh mike i don't have a GS its just a skylark 72 so theres no shame in cutting her up
I have everything to "back half" a car right now that would be perfect for a "Pro Street car" not sure about a 6-sec. car but, complete 4-link set up with frame, only thing needed would be ring & pinion & tires. If anyone is interested let me know, it is "FOR SALE"
