here's one for ya: Just replaced cap, rotor, plugs and wires for my 350 and started it up to hear a noticeable "tic" coming from what appears to be inside the distributor. Also, it's staying alive but running REAL rough. Triple checked firing order Plugs were gapped to .030 all wire connections are tight. o No: Any ideas what this might be?
Tic increases with rpms - if that helps. I'm hoping it's a minor adjustment on the cap itself. Is it possible to tighten the coil too tightly? I tightened the coil to the cap as tight as it would go without forcing it.
When I replaced my distributor (with another points)... I don't remember hearing any noise at all from it o No:
Take the cap off and look for visible signs of markings in it. I once worked on a buddies car that the rotor was hitting the side of the cap because he didn't have it seated on the distributor correctly.There is a notch on the distributor and a small tab on the cap that has to be lined up or the cap will sit a little crooked. Pat
Also check the underside of the rotor. If you have a magnetic pick up, there may be a clearance problem. The replacement rotor screws sometimes are too long, and the square peg is too long and can actually hit the top of the pick up. You can trim both if this is the problem. The ignitionman sent me paperwork warning of this on my Distributor conversion.
When I was first messing with the timing on the Century, I noticed a loud tick as well; it wasn't until the evening that I saw a spark jumping from the coil wire to the block! The engine was running rough for a few reasons (timing, vacuum leaks, gap setting) so I couldn't tell you if that was the culprit. Just something to look for.
The tic definatly could be arcing. Check the wires with a meter, one or more could be bad. I once got a new set that was missing the metal clip that goes on the end of the plug.
Thanks for the advice. Yes, it's an HEI. I'll take a look at it again based on your input and let you all know what I find out.
Plugs should be gapped at more than .030 for HEI. Actually I think even points is supposed to be .045. I think HEI is .060. Also make sure when you order plugs that you get it for a car with HEI, not the year of the car, the plug is different for the two.
All Clear There WERE visible markings on the inside of the cap - I reset the cap and the click is gone. :bglasses: I'm still a little freaked about the gaps though. The ones that came out were Autolight 26. And .060? Not even close - you could fit a quesadilla in that gap. The 26s I put in needed to be tapped plenty good to get to .30 - .40. It might take some time, but I'll play with different gaps over the next few days to see if there's any difference. Thanks again, guys. Couple of quick questions - what hurts performance more - Gaps too small or gaps too big? Would you recommend a different type/size of plug?
tricks OK - here's a few tricks to find "tics" or high voltage leakage: With the engine running...... Look at the engine in the dark. Yep, its that simple. Most sparks will be real obvious. Hold a flouresent light tube near the wires. It will glow bright when excited by any leakage. Keep it away from the fan..... :eek2: - Bill
i use a .35 gap for my plugs (pertronix ignition). might be a little different if it's a true HEI, but anything over .45 still sounds way too big...
12 Volt Man Hey I just noticed your in Danville. I spent some time there last year. About three months worth. I worked up in Alamo right next door. I did some work for the Seeno family. Seems to me like they own a lot of land in that area and have developed large portions of it. Cool quiet town nice car BTW.:TU: Ivan
