I bought a full 1/4 from a fellow member Ames and the other was made into a 1/4 skin. Today, I decided I'm going to put full 1/4s on both side. I ordered one from TPP on Ebay a little bit ago and after today's garage experience, I am almost ready to install the new one when it comes.Any little tips to getting the panel removed behind the drip rail? Or from under the roof panel on top of the car? They seem to be the biggest pain of it all..
Use a 3" wizzy wheel on the welds behind the drip rail. The Roof seam is tricky because it's layered...but you have to drill welds and pry up the roof skin...then grind out whatever is left of the quarter skin. When you fit the AMD quarters, keep the trunk lid on the car and make sure the gaps aren't too wide You'll have to trim a little off the new quarter skin in the weatherstrip rail. Also be careful with the rear window opening...make sure you have your stainless trim with you as you fit it in. Those quarters are nice, but not perfect.
Also make sure to fit the quarter extensions as you go, too. I've found that they will look fine on the outside, but don't sit level with the trunk lid if you don't mess with it.
All reasons why I leave factory quarters if all possible....you more often than not just disturb things you can't get 100% rite again....but you're here now
It doesn't have to be on the ground technically..BUT it does need to have the suspension loaded...sitting on Race ramps or 2x4 stands
You can lay on top of the roof skin....but it will require just a touch more body work... You can also leave the gutter seam alone...cut 3/8 to 1/2 in from it....grind it clean Cut the lip off the 1/4panel just the up turn 1/4puddle welds every 1in apart ..then you can take a grinder ease the edges down and a coat of dura glass or 3m8115 to blend it in Option 2 Does above but decide you want butt weld it...lay the quarter on fit it where you want it and using a thin disc cut thru both panels...fish the piece off the old roof out and then weld the seam with tacks jumping around. To be honest if you haven't weld on 18ga or thinner steel much one of two things will happen here you are gonna turn the heat to cold and you will not penatrate and it will essentially just pop loose...and you're gonna grind these big mounds that aren't doin anything Are your gonna use too much heat and make a mess Not being a dick but 95% of guys "who can weld" can't weld sheetmetal if their life depended on it So some tips Practice on scrap Set the machine on scrap Use 23 or 25 wire if you're not used to using 030 on sheet The two panels MUST BE FLAT other wise your gonna have issues BARE METAL...period....if you weld sheet alot sure use some weld thru...I myself don't because quite frankly it doesn't do much of anything You can weld thru the green self etch primer pretty easily if you desire Wire speed needs to be a tick higher Heat...as much as your skill allows you.. less or no grinding and a stronger weld is your reward For a novice..clip the wire EVERY TIME On the upside down wheelhouse welds..if your weld is falling out you need more wire speed..and do them in two halves
I've had more than few cars come to me with the "metal work done" that were BUTCHERED and DESTROYED by the owner or his buddy who's a professional "welder " yea damn pipe welder doin no less than sch 40 pipe and never touched a piece a sheet....so if you plenty of experience welding sheet good have at it if not heed my advice or you will wish you had left the original quarters on
