Read the linked thread. Scroll down to Mike T’s comment about the new type pump covers, they use shorter springs. You probably locked the relief valve closed. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-clearances-and-oil-pressure.326597/
the oil filter plates; gm made 7 different ones not counting the british 215. you can locate your filter at numerous angles. the so-called 1/4'' spacer plate is useless. use the whatever stock filter housing and whatever springs to get the oil pr you want. you don't need much. your not running in my territory for rpm.
The whole Buick oil pump deal is new to me and I'm figuring it out. I got the filter housing from Jurassic Classic, shim kit from TA, and the gear set with new valve and 4 different springs from Rock Auto. I put the 60psi white spring in. I guess I'll put the plain 40psi one in and see how it reacts. I sort of wondered about the white spring when I was installed the cap because it was TOUGH to get in. Good thing it's a 2 minute job to swap them.
Sounds like you have the WRONG spring in there, it shouldn’t require that much force to screw in the nut, sounds like you have the long spring in it.
This is starting to get old. Put the shorter plain/black spring in (40psi?), now it idles at 100 instead of 64. The valve moves in the pump just fine. Guess I'll try even shorter springs.
Mike T's comments from the thread I linked Folks, A few pointers here. First, The pump cover that comes with the TA pump assemblies is the new style. DO NOT install a white spring in this cover. The white spring in the newer cover will lock the relief valve shut This cover takes the shorter springs. You may use the stock spring from your original cover but other than that spring you must use the orange, yellow or green. A stock spring from 1978 say through 1987 would be the same as the orange. The original say 1964-1976 stock spring will give more pressure than the orange. Recently we have been providing both the original (steel color) and orange spring with the regulators. With the new style pump covers I have found that the yellow spring works very well and I have since been putting them in our pump assembly's. The green spring which some of you may have is not always in the kits. Now this spring will kick the upper end oil pressure higher. I would say when using this spring, use caution. Thinner oil, larger clearances, then maybe this spring would be the one. Now if you ever install one of these heavy springs and the pressure does not move up, chances are there is an internal problem in the engine. Bearing clearances, bad bearings, oversize lifter bore, gallery plug came out, wrong or bad lifter. Or pump set up way wrong. https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?attachments/oilpumpinst-jpg.436513/ Compatible spring, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?attachments/compatiblespring-jpg.436516/ Incompatible spring, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?attachments/incompatiblespring-jpg.436517/
So I just put the lightest shortest orange spring in ... Idles at 80psi. At least it only goes to 90 when off idle now. I'm done. At least with the white spring it idled at 60psi. Baffled
Look at the links of the compatible and incompatible springs Larry posted. You’ll know right off if you have the correct spring length in there BEFORE you install the nut.
Yeah, I read that, multiple times. Took it for a long cruise... idles around more or less 60 now, and gets to 80ish with my foot in it. Time to go fishing. Enough car stuff for a sunny day.
15w-40 Rotella T4. That's what I always run in these old jalopies. I don't think it's the oil pump because there's no way I'm driving it around for the past 3 days at 80+psi. I'm gonna mess with the pressure gauge and a new copper line and see what happens. I had similar thing happen with the water temp gauge when I replaced the radiator. It went from running at 220 degrees all the time, even cold, to running no more than 175-180 now. Either way it's one step closer to Power Tour.
really don't need 15-40. i use 10-30 and no oil filter in the dragster. the plastic oil pressure are junk and dangerous and could cause a fire. been there. i use 1/4 copper tubing. more lively and time accurate.
Rule of thumb is you use the THINNEST oil that gives you sufficient oil pressure for the RPM max you intend to run. Before that though, you really should have an oil pressure gauge you can trust. Running diesel oil was an alternative when they started to take the ZDDP out of oil meant for gasoline engines. Today, there are WAY better alternatives.
I hear you Larry. I thought about that, but before the pump replacement I ran that same oil and the pressure was 'normal' as would be expected...sub 60 at idle that dropped with temperature. The only difference now is the booster plate and bigger gears aren't in the system anymore. It's all standard stuff. Maybe the new housing is cut different but everything looks the same as the old one. I can try thinner oil I suppose, and replace the gauge and line. Maybe junk got caught in the line/gauge during all this, but I'd think the pressure would drop, not rise in that case. I may cut the copper line coming out of the block and put the gauge right there as a troubleshoot and see what it shows.
Nothing. Probably align the crank seal better... It's so far off to begin with, his distributor won't even drop in. Take one or both dowels out and see if the distributor will drop in at least, then go from there. Something is out of whack.
I already got rid of the replacement timing cover and put the old one back on. Took care of that problem real quick.
New gauge....new oil pressure. 40psi. Only thing I can think of that could make the gauge read so high is some junk got in it. It was fine until the whole timing cover/oil pump fix. One step closer.
