torque converter install tips?

I'm about to mate my trans to my engine, and have heard horror stories about torque converters being too tight and damaging the crankshaft.

Are there any special steps to follow to reinstall the transmission to the engine?

TIA
Frank

 

once the tranny is tight aginst the engine, you should be able to push the converter back away from the flywheel about a 1/4'', if the converter is tight aginst the flywheel, then you need to pull it back out and reinstall the converter. just my 2 cents

 

You can also put a strait edge across the the front face of the tranny. The converter face should be about 1.5" from the strait edge.

Once the trans is bolted to the block, the converter should be able to spin freely. If it is tight against the flexplate, DO NOT START THE ENGINE!!!!! The trans pump will fail immediately.

 

Thanks for all the input... is there a method to actually install it? It seems to me it justs bolts up.

Frank

 

You will notice one bolt hole in your flex-plate that is egg-shaped, the other two are round. Start the egg-shaped hole first, and the other two bolts will start easily in the convertor holes.

Start one of the round holes first, and one of the other holes, usually, will not line up.

This saves alot of time turning the engine over tightening and loosening bolts getting the holes to line up.

 

Installing a converter can be done one of two ways and you have little to say about which you get. Easy or hard! :laugh:

If it's a new converter, be sure to pour at least one quart of trans fluid directly into the converter before you slide it into the trans. This will have several benefits, the main one of which is to keep the trans from sucking all the fluid out of the pan before you can fill it after the car starts.

Look into the front pump on the trans and you will see two 'ears'. Looking at the converter, you can see two slots in the shaft. Obviously these parts need to go together with the ears in the slots. Sounds easy but there are two other splined shafts in the trans that need to mate properly with the converter. I have found that holding the converter as level as possible compared to these shafts and spinning the converter while pressing the converter into the front of the trans works fairly well. Don't get too energetic about pressing the converter into the trans. Each of these shafts spins independently of the other and has splines that mate with the inside of the converter. If you press too hard the shafts will spin without engaging properly.

Once the converter is properly inserted into the trans, using a straight-edge, measure across the face of the transmission where it mates to the engine. The converter's bolt holes should be about 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches away from the straight-edge. If not, keep pressing and spinning because the converter isn't seated properly.

Once it has seated and you have the engine and transmission bolted together but no bolts in the flexplate/converter, you should be able to spin the converter fairly freely. Line up a couple of the holes and slide the converter forward until it touches the flexplate. The front of the converter has what looks like a knob on it in the center. That knob mates with the back of the crank when everything fits together properly. You might have to lift the converter very slightly to get it to slide into place. You should never have to use the converter bolts to "pull" the converter and flywheel together. :Smarty:

When it all fits together correctly, it all slides right together. If you have to force-feed any of this, something isn't right and needs to be re-aligned, re-centered or re-moved and re-placed.

This whole thing is way more fun if you are on your back with that heavy converter sitting on your chest, particularly if, like me, you have a concrete garage floor and it is way cold outside! uzzled: ou: You WILL find it is easiest if the transmission is out of the car or at least the engine is out and you can do this from the front, sitting on the cross-member getting grease on your butt.

Let us know if you have any problems with this.

 

The engine and trans are out of the car, and I have plenty of room to work...

as I recall, the trans came off the engine and the converter was still attached to the flexplate. Is there a reason I can't reinstall it in this (reversed) order?

Frank

 

It is more likely to NOT go into the pump correctly doing it that way and damaging the pump gears (as in breaking them in half).

 

There is one great reason. Your chances of having everything lined up correctly and all of the appropriate parts sliding together as intended is something less than your chances of winning the Powerball, and being the only winner.

It pretty much has to be done by installing the converter into the transmission, then mating the engine and trans, then bolting the converter to the flex plate.

Anything else is not tempting fate, it's pinching it on the butt, HARD! :laugh:

 

thanks for all the help. :beer I think I've got it now! :TU:

Frank

 

Thanks.

Thanks to everybody for this thread. I just got a rebuilt 455 and had serious reservations about doing R&R because the flywheel converter thing can be such a headache. Has anyone installed a motor without removing the hood. I know from experience that even when you mark one it doesn't always line up right. Oh by the way... back in trade school my instructor said the best way to make sure torque converter is seated is to try to stick your hand behind the torque converter. If you can then it is not seated fully. Rule of thumb... sort of.

 

I followed all the great advice here and mine was smooth and pretty easy. It helped that the transmission was sitting on my tailgate! All the clearances seem good, so if I can ever get these darn springs changed and the new frame pads on, I can install the motor! :beer

Frank