a good possability one possability here,the :kill wire", is creating an open circuit so you dont feedback to power the coil. in the process of going from full charge(60 amps wont come close to your needs)to an complete open circuit(transiet voltage)you are creating a HUGE voltage spike,in turn,smokin your alternator. as a electrical rebuilder(who wont life time warranty for obvious reasons) i find it disturbing you dont find the cause for this &try to avoid "warranting"alternators.:blast: this is what makes us rebuilder guys look bad & your prices go up:af: take the advice you get on this site and fix it right.once you do,you should go to an 120 amp cs-130 alt,i can sell you one for $160.00 NEW NOT REBUILT.:TU:
Well that new alternator I just got, went bad again. It was still charging but this time something mechanical went wrong with it. First of all, red dust covered the fan and pulley. The nut that holds on the fan and pulley was crossed threaded. Also it made the most god awful noise under the hood. Everytime we get remaned parts, they just dont last. I guess you get what you pay for. On my dads GN, in 3 weeks he went through 3 alternators until he finally got one that lasted. I also have a little nissan pickup. Its gone through 4 fuel pumps in the last year, with the last one only lasting about 2 weeks. I guess we'll just play this game until we get parts that work.
Sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious and simple things. My brother's Ford wagon would die at random times. He replaced the alt. and still had trouble. He had it in the garage for !!!3 weeks!!! and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. (Yeah, see if I ever go THERE!) I told him to take it to a local auto electric garage and do you know what the problem was? Worn alt belt! Replaced the belt and all is OK. out
