I'm about to take a razor blade to some after-market trunk weatherstrip for a 71 riv. Why the hell can't I find one that fits? I've posted here about my dilema before, and I thought I had it fixed, but the SOB seal still leaks exhaust in from the trunk into the interior. It's too small, not enough height, right on the back of the trunk above the bumper. This is the seal from my first attempt and actually lets you close the trunk. Came with a complete seal kit for a 71 riv I've bought two other seals, one that supposedly fits a riv, A harder extruded seal higher in height, but can't close the friggen trunk. I just bought a third seal a old new stock for a GPrix, too short btw for the riv, but was the original GM weatherstrip for a 69-72 GP. Again the trunk will not close, maybe if I had Rosie sit on it for a week it would. What the hell am I doing wrong. The trunk was removed for new paint when the car was redone. Why did I have them replace the old seal, why why why Signed, exhausted in Maine.
The weatherstrip is installed with the curve and point towards the outside of the trunk on the 3 attempts. The leaking weatherseal, the one too small, you can spray water into the trunk with it parked
was wondering the same:were did you bought the first strips? Have even heard about weatherstrips for a boattail being too short to cover the whole length of the trunk. Just changed the weatherstrips for the front doors on my Wagon (Steele) and I'm very pleased with the way they fit. The trunk weatherstrip for my Boattail ('73) have to be changed, so I'm curious about this.
Contact Ames Performance Pontiac. They carry original GM type soft foam with the latex skin. I have had tons of problems with the new hockey puck hard rubber stuff as well. i plan on trying theirs as well. Why not just get the correct stuff? It is pricey at $69 but worth it if it works. Just make sure you specify the good stuff as they sell both kinds. I just wish they had the same material for the doors as original.
Jim I did contact steele and got a price 40 bucks but didn't order it. Dave the third seal mentioned in first post was from Ames pontiac in NH for the 69-72 pontiac GPrix, it was the pricey NOS. Now it wasn't long enough for the riv being for a gran prix, it was about 2 feet short, but I wanted to see if I could get the trunk to shut on the NOS. I assumed GM seal is GM seal but the trunk won't shut. 75riv If you are replacing the trunk seal on a 73, I'd wait a bit until we can get this figured out because after you pay 200 bucks for a complete seal kit ( i remember softseal I believe, interesting that the first one is a foam with a skin also, but lower in config then NOS ames) then 70 bucks for gran prix nos and I can't remember who I bought the other trunk seal from for about 23, you start pulling your hair out and wish you left the old ratty seal in there that didn't pull exhaust into the car.
The exhaust leaking into the car from outside, thru the trunk seal, into the trunk and then into the car? o No:
Put the Steele Rubber weatherseal on yesterday and tried to close the trunk. Damn, doesn't want to close, close you SOB, slam, slam, slam. it closed. The trunk is closed but the trunk lid no longer lines up with body line of the car, it is now above it. Pop the trunk and it springs up with a sigh of relief. Shut it again and it's the same ole crap, it's a battle between trunk, body and weatherseal. I'm lucky I'm the guy that decided to replace my old weatherseal, because if it was at the suggestion of the bodyman, I'd be out on bail now. The first (softseal?)seal for this trunk allowed proper closing of the trunk but was not tall enough just behind the bumper to allow a seal. The NOS Ames part number pk387 was too tall just like the Steele. I imagine I could have closed the trunk on the Ames if I forced it. I looked at my 73 trunk lid weatherseal and it is squashed down to about 1/4 inch along the top and sides of the trunk. How the hell you can get the Steele Rubber gasket or the PK 387 weatherseal to conform to this is beyond me. The rear portion of the old trunk weatherstrip is much higher 1/2 inch or so above the body steel. I'd suggest that anyone before replacing their old trunk seal take a look at the old one and a new one and ask themselves is it going to fit? I'm going to take the Steele Rubber seal off, I'm going to roll it up and save it. If need be, I'll put it on, and hope that at some point it will squash. I'm going to take the smaller softseal weatherstrip and put it in on the top and sides of the trunk, at the very back of the trunk square I'm going to splice in the PK 387. Then see if I have a seal and don't get exhausted. Then I'm going to make a mental note to self to never replace a trunk weatherstrip unless it is leaking.
The faster you go the quicker you get exhausted, that's of course with the windows down. With the windows up, you don't get exhausted as noticibly, but your eye lids get heavy. Then when you open the windows to get some fresh air, you say "Do you smell exhaust".
Have you checked the alignment of your decklid...I have seen specific spacers on some Abody's that go between the decklid underside and the hinge arms. Could your decklid be cocked up in the back or too low in the front?? Check it out. Also..if it's like an Abody the catch that your trunk latch goes into has some adjustability. Get the decklid closed and closely check the alignment of the edge of the decklid with the surrounding metal. Too high in areas? Too low? Perfect?
I've replaced dozens of door and trunk seals on my ol 55-7 Chevys and have always had a hard time closing them until they "take a set" which can take some time. Gene
