Two questions for the installation of back window

Exactly! It will not physically fit with the curve/crown to the inside. We are talking about a 1972 Skylark/GS Coupe, Correct?
I remember reading your "bubble" quote a few months ago and it stuck in my head so that when I was installing the window I was puzzled as to why mine is backwards compared to yours? The crown has to go outwards on mine.

David

 

I'm puzzled here. Are you guys saying that your rear glass curves inward? Here's a snapshot of my glass stamp/etching.

 

Well here is another can of worms!!!LOL

I don't understand why the glass wouldn't fit one way but go the other, its not like the outside dimensions of the glass will change any by flipping it side to side (unless one side is out or car is not square).

Here is pic of my car that shows it pretty good. Note the light reflection. This is the way the window came out when I re-sealed it 20 years ago, I was the first one in so its correct for this car at least. If you look directly sideways at your cars sail panels from a distance, you will see the roofline has a concave curve to it, the glass matches that. I have never see a car any other way,although there is a first for everything.

I was going to check the codes for you but the car is kinda piled up with (soft) parts for the ragtop right now...

later
Tim

 

Here's mine.
Line AB has a convex crown of about 5/16". That is why window will only install one way otherwise there would be a 5/8" gap at ends A&B.
Line CD is dead flat.

 

Not being a smartass, but you flip the glass over and its suddenly 1.125" (5/8" at A and B) narrower across? I know a convex/concave surface will change a dimension compared to flat, but either way with the glass should have same dimension, not accounting for the glass thickness and edge angle.

Pics of mine (and only for you guys would I do this on my car....please ignore the dust, I just unpacked the car for this). The interesting part is mine has a slight crown as well going across A&B. I wanted to do the other side as well but you can see its up against a wall. Vertical is concave.

By the way I can read the codes from outside the car on my window.

I think you're funnin me, aren't you!? :laugh:

later
Tim

 

And across...

If your window was flipped over and re-installed, you would be able to read the lettering from the outside as I see it from the picture you posted.

later
Tim

 

Safetywise, if you ever do get in an accident with it and you for some reason end up against the windshield, the chances are much greater that it will stay intact and you will stay inside the vehicle which is the safest place for you in an accident. With the butyl the chances are much greater that the windshield will come out and if you are pressed up against the windshield you too will come out. Not good.

 

Sounds like a fabrication error. Who made the window? Look at the "bug mark" as it is called. The DOT number will tell you who made the window. For example, if it is DOT 15 it was made by PPG (Pittsburg Plate Glass), if it is DOT 18 it was made by LOF (Libby Owens Ford). Find the DOT number and stop by and ask a glass shop. They should have a list of who the number is associated with. You might have an after market manufacturer and it may not be right to start with. In which case a new glass made by a reputable manufacturer might be the way to get it to fit properly. I see by the pic it has the PPG logo but PPG may have contracted with someone else to manufacture the window. The DOT # is the only way to tell who truly made the glass. Sometimes, it will have the NAGS part # under the bug mark. It will start out with "DB" followed by a three or four digit number and then the letters "GT". The DB stands for "Domestic Back" and the GT stands for "Green Tint". If it has the part number you can check it out to see if it is the correct glass for your car. Hope this all helps. :TU:

 

TimR,
That was a good idea, using the reflection of the framing square to illustrate the curvature of the glass. I see a significant difference between mine and yours. I used a straight edge to show the convex curvature of the glass along the horizontal and you can see the perfect flat along the vertical.
So, You can actually take your rear glass out, flip it end over end, and reinstall it? As you can see, the curvature of my rear window will not allow this.

 

I think it could be done, the curve isn't that bad and the glass doesn't change size. Your stainless might fit better too...you're sure thats the original window?? Just seems odd...especially since the glass is more or less flat vertically and convex widthwise....you'd think it would be the exact opposite of mine (ie, convex vertically and straight widthwise)..

The question is, do you want to?? Its a lot of work. One of those things that most people would never notice...



later
Tim