Eventually I will need some paint on my 67 and being too cheap, I don't think I will want to pay somebody else to spray it. This is never going to be a show car, but I want it to be kinda shiny and decent looking. there are spray boots for rent so I can have a decent environment to spray it, but there are so many types of paint. Do I want a base and clear coat type? Once and done style? Urethane? Enamel? House paint? o No: Also, as I get to working on this, I will want to spray some paint on it to get an idea of how straight various areas are, but be able to sand those back off again before moving to final paint. Would lacquer be the best for those "checking coats"? thanks folks. Jon
You're going to get a diff answer from everyone. I like BC/CC PPG Omni but others will say it's crap. I last used it on my kids cars fender and it shot pretty nice even with my ancient siphon feed gun and outside. I am going to be painting my Skylark this spring/summer with Omni and for all the primer, paint and clear it will run about $350. Got an new gravity feed gun now and am going to rent the Beckers booth to shoot it. You are better off using a darker primer as a guide coat than using paint.
How cheap do you want to go? Here's an idea that requires more work than money. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html The paint has held up for that guy for a few years.
I have sprayed just about everything (dupont, sherwin williams, house of kolor, ppg omni). There is nothing wrong with omni as long as you are doing an "overall". If you are trying to paint a door on a 2010 Buick and want it to be an "exact match" you may have an issue. One of the reasons omni is "inexpensive" is because it does not have alternates for each color code. I have ordered Dupont chromabase from my supplier and had as many as 3 to 4 alternates for the same paint code which allows you to get a closer match. PPG omni is a good "inexpensive" paint but I have had good luck with it. The reducers are priced very fair also. The key is to use a good quality urethane primer and urethane clear. Here are some pictures of a Bike I painted last summer using PPG OMNI. Note the depth-no trick pictures-just some crappy pictures taken with my cell phone.
check this out http://www.classifiedads.com/auto_repair-ad2878195.htm Wish we had something like this in Mass.
Wow, that is pretty cool I live on the opposite side of town, so it is a 45 minute commute to get there, but when it comes to body work time, that might be an option. I do know there is a paint booth for rent right here in my town for $85 and I assume that includes hooking up to their air supply, but I try not to assume too much sometimes. Thanks for the idea.
I've painted several of my cars in the driveway with acrylic lacquer (PPG, Ditzler, whatever) and had good results. It does require a nice, still, low humidity day. Southern California is famous for those in the spring...and summer, and fall. Even in the winter. I have used an old Binks or Devilbiss one-quart cup. Of course, there's that periodic polishing and waxing that's required, but you can touch it up and repair a panel any time, with lacquer.
I don't know about which paint that is best or cheapesto No: , but I will say there are product's for use as a guide coat that are made just for that. They are not the same as a paint so they won't react to whatever paint brand you decide to use. They make them in spray can's for easy application. They should have it available in any store that sell's paint supplies.
Do all the prep work, and take it to Maaco..they do a decent job for a cheap price, they have a booth and bake their paint...right now its 250 to paint a car...most clear is higher than that... Ive done 20+ cars this way, I buy my paint prep the car, and they shoot it...good results on the cheap! If you used their paint it would be cheaper...im tellin ya, you cant buy quality paint for whay they paint the car for, and if you prep it...its will be everything your looking for...and they use a brand name paint....they can mix any factory color too...they dont buy it by the 55 gallon drum like people say...I managed a Maaco for 2 years....
Cheap and paint shouldnt be used together. Ive done $14 paint jobs, $30 paint jobs, and $1000 paint jobs. If you dont think $1000 is cheap for a paint job, leave the car the way it is, it'll probably be better off in the end. Marxjunk pretty well listed the best way to do it. Spend TIME yourself on prepwork, its not hard, its just very very time consuming. Prep work is also forgiving. If you screw up, its easy to fix. Once youre happy with the prep work, mask it off, and take it to a pro to spray. Most shops ive talked to will spray the car (if its masked already) for $100. If you have them mask it, its close to $300. For that price, its not worth screwing up by doing it yourself. Ask the guy (me) who spent 3 months to get the body work perfect, then had the entire job ruined by a freind with the runniest clear coat ive ever seen. Heres some picture of "cheap" paint jobs. $14 paint job with barbeque paint sprayed through a compressor and a cheap paint gun. The car was quickly scuffed with 400 grit paper, then sprayed. No primer, not really any cleaner, no tack cloth, nothing. Just a wash with water, and spray. This paint job held up amazing for 4 years, but it started to chip after that. BEFORE AFTER 4 Years Later Same Barbeque paint but we bought 2 cans (black and white). $1000 paint job done with Nason Base/Clear (Nason is owned by Dupont) its their "cheaper brand". The $1000 includes the price of paint and primer (about $450). Masking tape and masking paper. ALOT OF SANDPAPER. Degreaser, tac cloths. A cheap rotary buffer ($80), two good quality buffing and polishing pads ($100), and polish/buffing compound ($100). Plus odds and ends like a blocking pad paint reducer, etc etc. GOOD LUCK!
What about that paint line that is now offered through Summit Racing. I was thinking of giving it a try with my Z28.
Im gonna give some more advice....this isnt busting balls.... If you run that stuff your in trouble....you run it bad enough and you have to strip it...not just sand it flat, because it will show the run in the substrate...if you dont know what that is, its whatever is under the paint...and stripping a car is a MFer, especially if you just spent a month straightening it out ..and if you screw up, and its doesnt have enough harder in it and it stays stickey for a month before you can sand it, youre gonna wish you never saw the car.. let somone who knows what they are doing spray it..ya run the stuff on the floor, then have to strip it, then respray it, you just spent enough time(time is money) and labor to have a pro do it....so many times ive seen people THINK they can do it, and it gets ugly quick....if ya want to practice...do it to a turd you dont really care about...... maybe a drunk buddies car:grin: ..thats how i learned...i fked up so many cars, and theres a lot of ugly flame jobs on the planet thanks to me...it was back when a gollon of centari and harner was a 100 bux...there aint no 100 dollar paint out there these day...
Here is what I did in my garage with the economy line of single stage Sherwin Williams urethane, a Harbor Frieght gun, and a small compressor. Primer and paint ran me about $500.00. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=212304 You can do it! :TU: I used a single stage paint since it isn't a metallic.
Dude I like the barbeque paint where did ya get it from? That's the very black finsh I'm looking for.:TU:
Try and find a voke school near you. I went through a trade school for High School and I remember we worked on cars for free all you had to pay for was parts. Try and find a trade school that has a body shop class and bring it there. Can't get much cheaper then that for costs.
I always forget the name. Ill try to remember to take a picture of the can it comes in this weekend at my freinds place. Its a small hardware store around the corner that sells it. You will notice the cutlass shows a very "textured" look. Thats because we were 16 and didnt know what we were doing, so we sprayed it incorrectly, and it left bumps everywhere (very very thick paint with too much pressure on the spray). The buick was bodyworked when i bought it, and it was block sanded. The paint was mixed in with about 35% varsol (regular stuff you get off the shelf at home depot) and sprayed much nicer. It layed a slightly "satin" finish. Both of these were FLAT black. Then on my firebird, the front bumperettes, i mixed half gloss, half flat, and added alot of varsol. It was shiney for about 3 weeks then went flatter, and was a slightly sexier satin color. I liked it so much, that I sprayed the underhood of my firebird with it as well. Its not quite as good as Eastwood's underhood black, but it comes close I think. Its a WONDERFUL paint to work with. Very forgiving.
Here it is in all its glory. This is the $7 version (small can). Thers a can about 3 times its size for $14.
My plan, do the prep with the help of a pro and then have him paint it. If I can get it painted fro $1500 I will be thrilled. Paint is the first thing EVERYBODY sees... Like the thread "Color is everything"
