Upper radiator hose sitting above radiator

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by Karma, May 8, 2024.

  1. Karma

    Karma Well-Known Member

    So I just got a new radiator and hoses and noticed the hose is sitting a bit above the rafiator I'll add some pictures jusy wondering if this is going to create a cooling issue/air pocket and I should address it or if it's fine. 20240508_203946.jpg 20240508_203934.jpg
     
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I hate to ask a dumb question, but are you sure you don't have it backwards?
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  3. RoseBud68

    RoseBud68 Well-Known Member

    Is it the correct one. Theres a thread here showing the correct upper hose and part number.
     
  4. Karma

    Karma Well-Known Member

    I tried both ways
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Sometimes you have to cut a little off the end. Is there a part number on the hose? And what model Buick are you working on ?
     
  6. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Looks like he's working on a 69 wildcat. There are two hoses available. Gates and Dayco. Same application, both look completely different.

    Looks like he has the Dayco 70548 installed. The gates 20980 is the hose I have installed on the GSX. Fits much better
     
  7. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Zach,

    Sorry I missed your text earlier.

    Don't sweat this.

    If the cooling system is sealed (no leaks), and you have a good radiator cap 14-16 lbs, an overflow tank/reservoir, the system will "self eliminate" the air in the cooing system over short time.

    When the car is driven and gets up to temp, then allowed to cool, first the system pressurizes and the trapped air will be forced out along with some coolant as the air expands a great deal at boiling temp forcing air and some coolant into the overflow tank, the air is then vented.

    As the car cools, the coolant is drawn back into the cooling system, and then the process begins again the next time you drive.

    Over a several cycles, the majority of air is eliminated, and anything remaining is of no consequence. Also, operating the heater on the bigger cars with the thermal control valve for heating and A/C so the heater core also has coolant flow to eliminate air.

    Even having the return hose higher than anything else is not an issue.

    The main things are;

    Functioning thermostat, properly functioning/sealing cap, sealed system (no leaks, either coolant under pressure or air intrusion due to vacuum through a bad seal) overflow tank filled to the correct level to provide return under suction during cooling. And a properly working cooling system in all other respects.


    Initial filling of the coolant system from empty or after removal of components where loss of a great amount of coolant is encountered (removal of intake, water pump, radiator, heater core, lower hose or draining the block, changing core plugs) care to fill until full, then start and add small amount of cooling as the car warms up and the thermostat opens.

    You may experience "gushing" off coolant out the filler opening as the air is moved to the return hose into the radiator, but when things appear stable and you cannot add any more coolant, put the cap on, shut the car off and let it cool.

    After, drive and keep an eye on temps. It will work itself out.

    Talk to you later. :)

    M
     
    12lives and DaWildcat like this.

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