I know, it's been a really long time since I've posted . . . Anyway, I have a 1962 LeSabre with 72K miles, which is currently my daily driver (premium gas and crappy mileage -- yay!). About a month ago, I noticed an intermittent exhaust issue: at warm idle at long stop lights, there would be great clouds of white-ish smoke coming from both the passenger side pipe and the tailpipe. Also, the sound of the idle would change a bit (I can't exactly describe it, only to say it was different). This also happens when I am making tight turns (especially rught turns, but she doesn't discriminate) at very low speed (such as in parking lots). Returning to speed would correct the issue. Prior to this, the only other exhaust problem I've had was a bit of smoke on hard acceleration or steep hills. So I changed the oil (or, more appropriately, I had to have someone do it for me, because there was winter road-salt crud on the drain plug and my weak little girl arms couldn't break the stupid thing loose ), and put in a heavier weight of oil and some Lucas (following advice of others who have had similar problems). The problem cleared up for a couple of days, but came back. At this point, I noticed that the great clouds of exhaust smelled really funky (not like regular exhaust, not like burning oil, not like the oil on the dipstick, not like coolant, not like any of the many fluids I carry around in a milk crate in my trunk). I couldn't take it any more, so on Thursday I changed the oil again, to Rotella 10w30 with no additives (this time I did get the plug loose all by myself). This has helped in a general way -- she certainly runs better, and the exhaust problem is less frequent (but it hasn't totally stopped). At this point, I believe there are two paths I could follow, and I only like to change one thing at a time. 1. So do I go for valve seals next? I've done a little research here and on other forums, and I understand that it's not too difficult a job. I've read that my year may or may not have come with valve seals in the first place, but Napa does stock them. Is this something I can do myself in a day in my driveway with a basic set of tools (everything an owner of a 46-year-old car needs) and a Chilton's. And, if I do this, is there anything else (other than the obvious cleaning) I should do while I have the valve covers off? 2. Note: this one is a wild idea right off the top of my head, and may be totally unfounded. I have brake problems. The shoes and drums are in good shape, and they have been recently adjusted, but I go through astonishing amounts of brake fluid in my teeny-tiny master cylinder, and I can't find the leak. I wonder if, through the magic of vacuum hoses, brake fluid is being sucked into the exhaust and making the aforementioned great clouds of very funky smells. It wouldn't really account for the idle problems, though, unless brake fluid was reaching the combustion chambers. Suggestions? Instructions? Alternate theories? Something I missed? Yes, I know I need to do both projects, but this is my daily driver and I can only do one at a time (not to mention that I put all my money in the gas tank). Thanks in advance for your assistance, Maggie
Several years ago a buddy's recently rebuilt engine began to smoke. Needless to say, he wasn't very happy. Anyway, after fussing about the guy that rebuilt the engine for a few weeks, (and adding trans fluid occasionally) he found a bad modulator valve on the trans. Problem fixed.
I had a similar problem on my Cat with Brake fluid and My power brake unit was sucking it up. I replaced the unit and the problem went away Gary
I always like to troubleshoot the easiest and cheapest first. Lift your valve covers and make sure the oil drain holes at the rear of the cyl head are open. Sometimes on an older engine the orig valve seals will harden break off and plug up the oil drain holes. This causes the cover to fill with oil around the valve stems and the oil will get sucked in past the guides.
Pop the hose to your PB booster loose and see if its wet inside, I had a car that had a booster 1/2 full of fluid - it was kinda funny, give it some revs, pump the pedal and instant getaway screen!!ou:
I would opt to fix the brake fluid loss issue first. If this is your daily driver, you absolutely need two systems, brakes and steering. Loss of brake fluid is more serious than valve guide seals. And, that being said , the brake situation is probably the cause of your idle/smoke issue anyway. Follow robotec-1's suggestion, except if the line is not wet, I would plug that line somehow, and then warm the car up and then step on the brake ( note , don't even take it out of park) and see if you still have that smoke idle issue. If not that should confirm you need to address that booster. But don't be surprised if the booster is not the problem, but instead the rear seal on your master cylinder is leaking.
After much observation, I agree that the issue is with the brakes, since the change back to runny oil has fixed the oil-related problems (for the most part). So if the problem is the rear seal on the master cylinder, it's possible that I won't have to move heaven and earth to try to find a brake booster? 'Cause that's starting to seem impossible. Thanks for all your help. I'll probably need it again when I actually start working on the brakes (soon).
