I am replacing the vinyl top. The old one was worn out. I took it off, and ground the rust down to the metal. I have had some problems with the 3M Super Trim Adhesive (aerosol) removing the primer (also aerosol). Any ideas besides using an expensive epoxy primer? How about another less rough adhesive?
I'm not sure what car you have or the value you put on it, but, I can tell you that the epoxy primer will seem like a real bargain if your roof rusts underneath your new top.
Im thinkin of using por15 then a coat of the por 15 primer coat over that when I get around to doing my roof.
I originally thought I was using POR-15. It was given to me from a friend without a label on it. I really don't think it was, that stuff is supposed to dry hard as a rock, and be impenetrable even to acids.
What kind of a container was it in? Por-15 only comes in a regular paint can not aerosol. you must either brush it or spray it from a paint gun. It does get rock hard and impervious to just about anything. If adhesive lifted it, i'm sure it was not por-15. I wouldnt use any adhesive other than what is recommended for the vinyl top. You want to make sure it sticks down. Merickk.....why would you need the por-15 primer coat if you are going to use adhesive? I believe the glue would stick to the Por-15 with no problems, as it is as hard as steel... and you wouldnt need the primer to prevent any rust. I would be afraid that the glue would lift the primer before it ever would the por-15.
Blaze, it was in a quart can. I used it first, then let it cure for about 5 days, then tried the adhesive on it, and thats when the problem started. So I stripped it off with a sander, then tried priming, then used a sealer....Same problem. I am now back to stripping it off again down to the metal. Concerning the quart of paint I used, I am most certain it wasn't POR-15. It never really set up that hard. It seemed very oily.
I used that 3M adhesive on my top. It worked good. I followed the directions on the can. Also have someone help you center it. Mark the center of the car and the center of the top and work with it from there but be quick. It hardens faster than it says on the can. You can only lift and reposition it so many times before it dries. I needed 1 & a 1/2 cans coating the underside of the vinyl and the car for a 1/2 top. Where I did have a problem was the window urethane adhesive seperated from the rust paint primer a year later (Rust Killer made by Rust Check) and on the can it said it prepares the surface for the top coat. Both acrylic urethane and laquer made it craze and checker. These cheap rust paints/primers are good for nothing. I figure there was some kind of oil in the rust primer and caused a chemical reaction. I'd take that rust paint off and get some por15 for the rust. If you do don't get it on you're hands. I'll be there for a couple days. BTW a quart will go a long way. I just hand painted a bare frame 2 times and sprayed a few coats using just under a quart. It dries rock hard. It is UV sensitive but there are no UV rays under the top. Best of luck. Ray
to make sure the adshesive would stick to it. was reading somewheres where even glue has a hard time sticking to por15. was reading that some people had problems installing windows that the channel had been painted with por15 because the window sealer wouldn't stick to the por. Course I'm still a long ways off from that part of my project heh. and theres a ton of research to do in the meantime.
I searched the net before using por15 and there was alot of people that said it didn't work and adheared poorly. Others said it worked awesome. I followed the directions on the can and it worked exellent. With the por15 you can fog a coat of the topcoat paint you want to use before it dries. Then spray a coat of the same paint on top. The instructions are with the can. A quality acrylic enamal, not the cheap stuff at your local hardware store should work well. A freind of mine did this with some chassis black on his frame and it turned out real nice. Ray
yea im still doin research on the por thing. but was thinking of trying to save a little cash by not having to paint the top. I also want to paint the channels with por15 also to help stop the rust. hince the por primer coat to make the por bond good with paint that definatly wont be put on while the por is still tacky. might be awhile before i actually have enough cash for paint, but i am going ot attempt the body work myself. No way i can paint it myself but figure i might be able to handle the sanding, priming etc.
