WANTED !!!...P/W motor for '69 Electra 'vert...drivers door.

BiggestRed is pissin me off.

Drivers side power window is starting to act up.
Checked all connections which are O.K. but the damn thing has a mind of it's own.
Seems to work great but then it'll stop working all of a sudden and at the worst time.

I don't know if 4 door cars or 2 door cars have the same motor as a convertible car.
Anyone have a good one, please let me know ASAP.

Don't want to go caught with my window :moonuOWN:moonu: !!!

Thanks
MOON'

 

Take a picture if you have it out. I have some I can compare.

 

Jim, I found this on Hydro-electrics site but this photo is of the passenger r/f side.

I guess if you mirror imiged this picture you'd see what the drivers side looks like. (gear facing other way)
They only have a passenger side available.

 

Did you check your wiring inside the rubber sleeve ?
Sometimes the wires get brittle and stiff with age ( ...just like people), from the constant flexing of opening and closing the driver's door.
This can sometimes cause intermittent, or eratic operation of a power widow. o No:

 

I'll look into that.

Plus I'll check and make sure it's grounded well.

 

X2, Been down that road too. Those PW motors rarely fail outright. I might have one laying around if Jim can't help you.

 

while you have the door apart, do yourself this favor.
make a ground wire and fasten it to a clean paint free part of the door with a nut and bolt.
run it through the door wire boot and ground it to a paint free area behind the kick panel just above the kick panel.
makes the locks and windows more reliable.
old cars ground those devices through door hinges and sometimes the latches.
adding the ground can sometimes make an instantly noticable difference.
anytime a door is apart on one of these old cars adding the gtround wire is a good thing to do.

i use a 10 gauge wire with ring terminals crimped and soldered. have mounted the wire right to the window motor bolt before too.
locknuts for the nuts.

 

I have a rebuilt original motor.PM if you are interested.Before I'd replace the motor I'd do what Rivman said.if you have a wire that"s intermittent open,when it quits operating try the other windows from the master sw.If they work,it probably is the motor or a corroded connection at the motor.If they dont,Open the door to see if it starts working since the wires bend in the door boot,jiggle the boot.It could also be a contact in the main switch that's bad.The worst part is it's interrmitent.Wait till it happens then be ready to do those steps.If you need a motor I can help.Bill

 

Mooney,I don't think you need a motor,just in case send me a picture of it,maybe the GS's have the same motor.You know I have a few of those and the price is just right.Bruno.

 

I can check on Saturday or Sunday. They are stored 45 minutes away.

 

Thanks to all for the suggestions, I'll give each one a try. Jim,see what you've got. Bruno, I might be calling.

 

if you're not too busy in the morning, drive the biggest red over here and we can check it out together.

 

the passenger window on my wildcat used to do the same thing, I fought this for a while thinking it was the motor but it ended up being the connector to the motor. the connections inside the plastic were old and slightly corroded and every once in a while it would just stop working. It was tough to diagnose because you couldn't see up inside the connector too well. I ended up cutting the connector off and using crimp style push on connectors and it has been fine for several years now.

 

as far as compatability.. here are clips from an olds file on my PC. the body styles match Buick styles.
Sometimes a motor will be fro the Right side and sometimes the Left. depends on the car door.
but it may shed LOTS of light on your hunt.

 

GM #5045588 is the LH motor part number I show. I want to be sure I know the correct number before I look through my stash. Can someone else confirm this is correct?

Ron --cut the key on, activate the window switch and wiggle the corrugated tube that covers the wires going to the door near the hinge. A broken wire at his location is common due to the stress of opening and closing the driver's door.

 

i figure the numbers have changed throught years.
but the compatibility wouldnt have.
thats where the papers i posted may help the most.
best way to verbalizeeek2:?) the motor orientation might be... "when looking at the gear, is the motor on the lower left side or the lower right side?"

 

You actually think he's taken the door panel off ?

My bet is he bought The Wizard a one way bus ticket to come down and fix it.

... I'll look in my 69 parts book tonite

 

Geeze Alan I can't think of anything better than a Greyhound bus .. What a way to treat a buddie ou:

I'd rather shower at a truck stop without shower shoes !! :beers2:

 

There's also a small possibility that the master switch has corrosion within the contacts. Wouldn't be uncommon in convertibles. They *can* be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled if you're careful. Or simply replace with any door mounted 4 position switch from any GM product of similar style.

 

... its usually not the switch that goes bad but the bakelite harness module that connects to it from the inside of the door panel, and its usually the master Positive feed that corrodes from arcing.

Im still searching for my '69 Parts book - I haven't seen it since I packed up my office for the home reconstruction 2 yrs ago ou: