Wanting to buy a buick, no idea what i am doing, help!!!!!!!

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by indy_007, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. indy_007

    indy_007 Well-Known Member

    Here is some of the vinyl top
     

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    Last edited: Apr 14, 2010
  2. 1973buickgsstag

    1973buickgsstag rusty73'V

    It may have an adapter plate...
     
  3. indy_007

    indy_007 Well-Known Member

    I am wanting to go look at the car this weekend, however the guy i was taking can't make it. Is there any Buick guys close to there that would meet me to check it out and make sure it is ready for the 3-4 hour trip home? Help me go through and check everything. I could reimburse 50 bucks for your troubles. It is in Hickory NC.
     
  4. 1967GS340

    1967GS340 Well-Known Member

    That is true, but a lot of extra trouble instead of using a very common transmission that can be picked up cheap.

    I'm no where near around there to look with you but I did notice on the pictures of the vinyl top it looks like there is some texture under there. Could just be the pictures but if you see anything in the vinyl that doesn't look just right make sure and feel it, press on it with your finger, progressively harder. Listen and feel for any crunchy sound or feel. Vinyl tops love to cause or hide rust. They can be like a nasty christmas present when you peel them back.
    If there is rust that you can detect there, you could probably expect to find more hidden on the car.
     
  5. tlivingd

    tlivingd BIG BLOCK, THE ANTI PRIUS

    I know this car and posted it and been under this car. He has the adapter plate installed available from summit or jegs.
    it is not a resto car and yes the rear is out of a chevelle and yes they are the same housings.. The drive-train has been swapped completely from another ride.
     
  6. indy_007

    indy_007 Well-Known Member

    Okay let me revise, i am unknowledgeable when it comes to older cars, You all have informed me of what to look for when looking at it, i would still like to know if there is anybody close to hickory, nc that would be a second pair of eyes just to point things out i miss, will not hold responible if i missed it, you found it good- if we both miss it then oh well it was hid pretty good.... But anyways my real question, Is there any good mechcanics or garages i could take it to near hickory that could tell me the shape of the drivetrain and body, an inspector..

    Again i am just wanting to learn what to look for in your guys opinions,

    just fishin for knowledge.
     
  7. roboteq-1@hotma

    roboteq-1@hotma 76 T Top

    187.2537 MPH.:shock: Do a web search for car inspections- they range from about ~100$ to 250$- this may seem like a lot, but if you cannot get someone you know or a good recc. than its a lot cheaper than buying a POS....
    Good luck!
     
  8. indy_007

    indy_007 Well-Known Member

    Well wish me luck guys going to wytheville va saturday to look at it, I will take your advice and a friend with me to look over the car, if any motor head would like to check it out and will be close let me know, short notice. Here is a pic of the core support he sent me, i noticed the ground is disconected do not know if it is so he can take a pic or if it has a ground loose on the car and is draining the battery, thanks guys and hope to join your family soon.
     

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  9. HilbornNailhead

    HilbornNailhead Well-Known Member

    There's already been a lot of good advice offered up here, so I'm not sure that there is much more that I could add to it other than my own observations.

    As already mentioned, it looks like there is some "texture" under the vinyl around the rear window. This could just be the picture, or it could just be an amateur job, but I would definitely spend some time in that area checking to see if it's rusty. Keep in mind that if installed from the factory, these vinyl tops were nothing but rust magnets, trapping moisture. And also keep in mind that vinyl tops can be installed to cover up rust as well. You don't have to assume the worst, but being a past owner of plenty of vinyl top cars, all I have to say is be cautious.

    Personally, for a new paint job, the paint looks a little flat to me, which tells me they either did it themselves, and/or they didn't spend much money on it, and just had a quick spray done to cover up the old stuff.
    I'm also really leary when I see that a car has "new paint" but no attention was given to the engine bay area. I have fully prepped and finish painted engine bays in one day, it doesn't take much. It's a long weekend at most, and usually when this aesthetic is passed over, it just means that they were looking to pretty up the outside of the car for the "wow factor."

    If this really is a solid car all around, $5,800 is not a bad asking price if you're just looking for a good driver (I bet you can get it for $5K), but if it needs a 'bit of work, or you need to correct poorly done work, you're going to be deeper into your wallet than a Skylark is worth.

    Best of luck to you!
     
  10. HilbornNailhead

    HilbornNailhead Well-Known Member

    Duh, just saw the date and realized you might have already checked it out.

    So, how was it?
     
  11. indy_007

    indy_007 Well-Known Member

    I got the car, gave 5300 for it, and $60 bucks a month for insurance thru progressive. taged and insured and have been driving all week love the big block, it does need some work and paint but i feel that it will work for me as a commuter, got 15 mpg driving back from wytheville to my house about 150 miles so far. question what oil should i use, know i should try and use what they used, but i would like to use pensoil, what are your guys opinion and what weight, 5w-30 or 10w-30??? Where can i get the buick red engine block paint?? on my to do list, Loved it drove to auto zone and was able to change the fan alt belt in the parking lot, love the old cars... As far as the vinyl top what would you guys thank about me taking it off and painting the top black and leaving the chrome pieces? They put the vinyl top one poor job, i am hoping that when i paint it i won't find surprises but i am going to wait till i got money put back so i can get it done right.

    Thanks everyone for your input really helpful.. :beer
     
  12. 67GSFun

    67GSFun Johnny

    Hey congrads! my advice to you is just drive it! enjoy for the summer!.. come on here and read post learn about your car, ask questions, go to car meets this summer meet other Buick folks ask question on various detailing projects and make a list and do them during the winter.. enjoy!
     
  13. HilbornNailhead

    HilbornNailhead Well-Known Member

    Congratulations on your Buick purchase!

    You have plenty of time to fix her up, but the first thing you need to do is change your insurance company!

    Go through a "specialty" company who knows and understands antique autos, like Hagerty for example. You'll pay less money, get better coverage, and an agreed upon value.
    I don't work for an insurance company, so this isn't some shameless plug, but I put out the warning flag everytime I see someone who is insured through Progressive.
    Not until I got ripped off by them last year, did I realize what crooks they are; and then started to find out all the other horror stories from former customers.

    I don't want to hijack this thread with a tirade, but if you want the details I'll give them. Anything to save another auto lover from disaster.
     
  14. indy_007

    indy_007 Well-Known Member

    tried to go with hagerty but they were 50 bucks, progressive agreed value of 8,000, the problem was that I don't have a garage and i only have one car on an insurance policy, the other companies, grundy, jc taylor, i would have to be 25 or 26, i am only 20, but i have an ace in the hole, the wife worked for the progressive agent, so that helps but yeah it's hard to find a good truthful insurance company,
     
  15. Willby70

    Willby70 Well-Known Member

    Congats!! I suggest leave it in place. Nothing but glue under there and bondo at the quarter seam. You will just spend money for nothing mess with that top. I think I paid $350 to replace mine. But that would be the least of my worries, upgrade that insurance and drive her.
     
  16. 1967GS340

    1967GS340 Well-Known Member

    Congratulations on the purchase!
    You are going to love driving a big block. It's a hole different experience.
    As for the top, I agree that you should leave it alone unless you suspect that there is something that needs attention under there.
    As for painting it, you will find that it needs a lot of prep work to paint under there. Keep it as a vinyl top or be ready to do a whole paint job and spend some time or money on prep work for the top.
     
  17. Gary Bohannon

    Gary Bohannon Well-Known Member

    Get VALVOLINE 10w-30 regular or synthetic oil. All Valvoline oils now have 1300 ppm Zink minimum. Most all other oil has been reduced to 600-900 ppm. There isn't much good oil to choose from, and many old cars with flat tappet cams have been replacing camshafts the past few years due to lack of zink. Use AC filter only.
    Search ZINK on this site and find lots more info.

    I'd take baby steps before tearing into anything. Ask here before making any drastic changes for sure.

    I think you did just fine on your Buick purchase. I've had my 67 GS for 34 years now and made some mistakes along the way. Tried things that didn't work, wasted money here and there. The old car has been lots of fun through the years though. This site can help minimize mistakes, and make your progress much more fun.

    A good example of a car with so many stock parts that runs great is a 67 GS belonging to Gary Steele "BUQUICK" on this site. He has a "Stock appearing" car that has run 12.10 at 111mph and used so many stock parts, it's amazing what he did without buying all kinds of expensive race stuff. Search back a few years on him. Stay with his 67 info, not his more exotic 72.
    Good Luck & keep in touch GB
     
  18. Doubleclutch

    Doubleclutch Well-Known Member

    Be sure to take a small refrigerator magnet with you. Check the lower panels for bondo. Stick the magnet in a upper panel to get a feel for the clamp. Then do the lower panels for:( no stick means bondo.

    I also recommend an inspection. My program is to work the obo and get the price south of the 5800 then inspect and use the inspection to work on price some more.

    From the pictures its a good/fair car for the price. If your anxious go, if patient wait for the screaming buy. There's a lot of guys missing a lot of fun waiting for the screaming buy--life is short.

    Chuck
     
  19. RapidRick

    RapidRick Can't spell Buick w/o U+I

    Hey, he (indy_007) already has the car....:Brow:
     
  20. RipRohring

    RipRohring 53 SUPER V8 12 Volt

    Just to confirm what others have said - ASK FIRST someplace hereabouts, before making changes to your car. You'll save hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars, and you will be protecting your Buick investment. :dollar: :dollar:
    .
    Also, I have a tendency to browse even threads I don't have an interest in. Almost always, I learn some little nugget, and sometimes I find a Gold Brick in some threads. :Smarty:
    .
    Buy yourself a pair of those V8BUICK license plate brackets for your car. Then watch for any others with 'em - they ALL get 'em HERE. :3gears:
    .
    Then they also have some nice polo shirts here, and nice hats. When you get some loose change, buy one of each, wear 'em to car cruises with pride. You'll get some handsome comments from other guys (they'll be JEALOUS). . . Especially from those chevrolet guys (they're all Buick wannabees). . .
    .
    And you be NICE and POLITE to them chevy guys - tell 'em their tri-five hats look mighty nice. :bglasses: :bglasses: :bglasses:
    .
    RipRohring :Comp:
     

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