For the past few months I have been playing around with welding and used a Miller 175 which requires 220 volt service. I had my heart set on buying a 175. It can weld metal as thick as 1/4 with one pass. My dilemma is this I can not get 220 into the garage with out spending big $$ (which I do not have). My neighbor sells Millers and was talking to me about a 110 volt Miller 135 which can weld 3/16 metal. My questions is should I get the 135 it seems like it would be adequate for the auto world and light fabrication work or do I want to run an extension cord from the basement laundry room (220 line). Is that even possible? Is it safe? And yes it will piss off the wife. (which is not safe)
What all do you plan on welding? How thick of material are you working on? The reason I ask is that the 220 machine has a higher amp output than the 110 machine. If all you are going to weld is sheetmetal it would be fine. I have a 110 volt wire feeder for my light work, does just fine. When I have something heavier like a frame I pull out the big one 400 amp 220 volt machine. If I can be of any more help, just ask and I will try to clear up your questions.
Thats sort of my problem: I'm not sure what I plan to do. Being a newbie and all my head is spinning. My plans at this point are to build/fabricate a bunch of stuff for science class (I'm a teacher), plus building some nice tree stands for myself and others to hunt from. I do foresee doing auto body sheet metal in the future. Can you run an extension cord for a 220 machine and get any performance? Is it safe? A plus for the 135 is I can plug in anyplace. I teach a bunch teacher training workshops and that might be handy. As a side note it is funny a few neighbors have asked me to fix a few things once they heard me talking about picking up a machine. Why cant anything be easy. Thanks for your time
I have two Miller Crickets that are on 110. An older 90 Amp that stays at my Dads, and the newer 135 that stays with me. Can't weld 1/4 inch eh? NONSENSE. Those little Millers are awesome machines and the portability of a 110 is super convienent. Matter-of-fact, I've welded 1/2 plate with the older one. Just pay attention to the Duty cycle so you don't trash it. Bottom line, the Millers have never failed to Weld my automotive (and other)needs. Ask some of the guys whose frames I've repaired. I'm welding on my Wildcat some more this week. If I remember, I'll bring some thick scrap and buzz stuff together and take Pics to show you. I think my 135 cost 'round $600 about 8 years ago. Now I'm never one to charge a fortune for odd jobs, but It paid for itself rather quickly.
Same dilemma for me, 110 vs 220. After carefully weighing the majority of auto work I'd be doing, and factoring in the availability of 110 everywhere you go, I did some research and purchased the Hobart Handler 140 (made on the Miller line, so I'm told). Purchased new from sgweldstore on ebay, around $450 w/free shipping. Ready for gas. I couldn't be happier with my decision. Devon
Thanks guys Miller 135 it is going to be for me! I have always been interested in welding, over the winter I took a welding class at night. It was awesome. I have had the bug ever since.
Welder set up I have my welder jumpered off my air compressor line. When I am welding, I am not using the compressor and when I am using the compressor I am not using the welder. It will work fine if you jump off another line. Eaven if you accidentally did use both at the same time it would just trip the breaker.
I have a hobart handler 120. It has served me well for many years. Installed 4 roll cages, and numerous other projects. I even welded some brackets to the frame. It can weld 1/4 no problem. As mentioned earlier it does have a duty cycle, so be aware of that. The only trouble I've ever had is if using it for heavy gauge welding it is best to plug directly into the outlet (no extension cord). If you must use an extension cord, use the heaviest gauge one that you can find and as short as possible. I don't think you can go wrong with a quality 110 volt welder. The 220 volt welders are great for heavy welding and alot of it, but the 110 is portable!
frame The thickest frame I have ever seen on a car is not a qtr. in. thick. This leaves the engine brackets as the next thickest thing to be welded and they very seldom break. Plus any welding that you would do on them will be short duration.
for 220 in my garage i run a extention cord . its a heavy thick heavily insulated cord my father got years ago . i run into my house and up behind my clothes dryer . so its either laundry or shop . buried about a foot deep ., yet its only about 18-20 feet long .of course it gets complicated in the garage when my welder doesnt use the same plug as say my air compressor and a electric base board heater i have on the wall . it comes into the garage as a large plug for the welder then i have the second outlet hooked by a foot or so jumper for the compressor .boy those plugs and outlets can get expensive . i used a 110 miller cricket for quite a while . it belonged to work so i practicly owned it . it was ok . just had issues with penetration . maybe it was the flux core . i bought a 175 hobart 220 a few years ago ( miller and hobart are the same people ). i'm runing argon/co2 . best piece of shop equip i ever bought . i built my current stock car with a big ol miller i borrowed and i like the hobart better . i built my first stock car with the cricket 110 . i grew up stick in my fathers shop and i still have his old solar stick he bought back in the mid 80's . i dont like it as well as the mig, of course. yet i got good at stick welding so i cant say i wont do it again . i feel theres less old school stick welding out there , and thats good . if seen alot of chicken scratch from others welding .
heres the outlet mess in the garage .the welder takes the larger plug where my air compressor ,wall mounted heater ,and window air conditioner take the smaller . in the house behind the dryer is basicly another plug where as i said , its a matter of laundry or working in the garage . its easy to reach behind it and change plugs .
220 Volt Always go for the Bigger unit, It can do what the smaller one does! Like they say "It is better to have more then not enough!" Don
I got the Miller 135. I have welded a bunch of stuff already and really like it. Don I always try and go with the best and biggest (in that order) but this time I had to go with only the best. $$ is in short supply and the big boy would cost more. Thanks to all that gave input.
The Good Thing about either one...... Both can weld Aluminum with the Gun, That is my next purchase. I like the spool gun that Miller makes,Simple and easy to use. Good Luck with your New Toy dr. :TU: :beer Don
I have had a BECCA 150 110 volt welder and it has served me well for 12 years its the biggest 110 volt welder made more is always better it allows you to weld anything .. I have welded 1/4 as well as paper thin metal even a pair of glasses frames with mine :TU: :TU: So go with the biggest 110 volt welder you can Ken
Does that have the spool right on the handle? That would be the way to go for welding aluminum. At our shop we did a lot of welding with the regular wire feed through the liner, what a pain in the butt. Almost faster to just tig weld everything, but not quite. Once you got it set up it did ok as long as you kept the whip straight enough.
Yepper Yes it has the Wire for the Aluminum in a Spool in the Gun, That way you don't have to pull it all the way up the hose, A LOT EASIER and Less "BUNCHING" in the hose or break offs. I used one on a Demo model and what a difference! :TU: Don
