I think I pushed my 69 350 4V as hard as It'll go this year. I hoped for fourteens in the quarter, but 15.27 was the best. My combo is........Stock 69 350 4V engine with headers and duals, stock HEI, New process A-833 4 spd OD transmission, 3.42 GN posi. This is in my 85 Regal. My winter plans call for the cam, intake, and ignition thing. So what has these things done for you guys? I don't every plan on going nuts with this car or I wouldn't have set it up with an aluminum case four speed, but some mid fourteens would be nice.
I had a 72 GS motor in my 70 GS 4 speed car and ran 14.56 in the 1/4.The motor was totally stock rebuild with a cast intake and stock manifolds.The rear gears were 3.42 and I used a 68 GS 400 muncie tranny which I am using in my 71 car now.The only mods I did were an MSD 6 AL ignition with points and an 800 Quad carb.I also had a 2 1/2 exhaust on it but I really picked up alot after a buddy showed me how to set the timing with the advance full in around 30-32 degrees.I also used the best gas I could when I was going to race.The best bang for the buck was the MSD.I am hoping to see some mid 13s with my 71 but Maybe I set the sights too high.This car (71)has TA headers,3 in. exhaust,118 cam and a few other goodies as well. Pat
I had a 72 GS350, completely stock and untouched motor, loaded car with AC, buckets, etc... It was a 3.08 posi car and I think the only time I took it to the track with that motor it went 16.11. It was the first car I ever had at the track, back when I was around 18. I had no idea what I was doing either. I'd think I could run some higher 15's with it just with launch technique and a few things I know now.
I only mad one run, but did 15.75 with a Q-jet, stock manifolds, dual flowmasters, and MSD. 2.56 gear, full wieght AC 4dr
Don't go too wild!! Dan, Just don't go too wild on the cam, bigger is not better in the 350! I've had a couple different builds on my '69 350 and wasted a few dollars on parts that didn't work. You have to watch the complete combination of parts to make sure they all work together. You need to watch where the cam starts making power and match that to the rest of your combo. If you don't want to run a higher stall converter, keep the cam close to stock. I had a Lunati 210-220 in my first build with stock everything and it ran 14.60s with a 3.23 gear. I'm still running a points distributor, with good Blue Streak components, and it works fine. I tried a HEI distributor with over $150 worth of modules, coils, plug wires, etc. and it didn't run any better than my points setup. So I have to check the dwell a couple times a year with points, that doesn't cost that much! My car has actually run quicker with a stock intake than it did with a TA aluminum manifold, go figure! ou: Don't spend $$$ without making sure ALL the parts are designed to work together!
Ken, I welcome good advice from someone who's 350 ETs like yours! Thanks!!! By the way....Converter? uzzled: Not in this Buickp
83 regal with 350 i had a 72 gs 350 in my 83 regal with 350 trans 2000 stall , gs118 cam ,3.42 rear and ran 14.4 at 91 with stock manifolds and q-jet .even had cat convertors on it. but went to big block.andy:TU:
when I had my 350 I rebuilt it stock and ran a best of 15.98 with the only mod being a 750 holley. I was running an open 3.08 rear and 2 inch exhaust. I then put in postons gs112 cam, 10.25 pistons, supercomp headers, 3" exhaust, 3200 - 3500 stall, 3.90 gears with a posi unit, postosn s divider intake, mallory unilt distributor and a mallory high fire box, and upgraded the fuel system. Heads were stock except for valve springs. Ran stock rockers. The best et with that combo was a 13.08 at 102 mph and usually ran 13.15 - 13.20.
Jason, Thats movin'!!!!!! Alec. I have a chance to buy a 118 cam kinda cheap, seems it worked for you good. By the way, My best is 15.27 at 90, but I did run a 15.38 at 91.09. Go figureuzzled:
I have a '71 GS w/350, 8.5:1cr, stock except for a fresh 3 angle valve job, a shift kit in the 350TH, and a flex fan and it runs low 15's all day. The best so far has been 15.19 @ 90mph. This was with 30* total timing and stock size dual exhaust. I've since installed a 2 1/2" exhaust system and am looking forward to finding out what improvement this will make, if any. From what I've been reading here and seeing elsewhere, the '70 engine with the 10.25:1cr (everything else is the same) seems to be worth .5 to .7 sec. in the 1/4mi. My goal for this car with some carb and ignition tuning is 14.75sec.
Darren, I'm fortunate to have one of the 1969 10.25 comp engines 350s. There is a higher horse GS 350 engine for 1970. I don't know whats different, but my 69 engine has the same pistons. Mine appears to be a low mileage engine, so I think I can leave the bottom end alone. From what I gather here, the cam must be the weak point of this engine. Also, how do you determine how much total timing you have? My marks stop at 15.
Dan, From what I understand the cams in the 68-70 hi-comp motors were the same. Not sure why the difference in HP. Maybe because the valve trains are different. I know my 70 was rated at 315 @ 4800. The 68 350 in my 4 door pulls pretty hard, but not nearly like my 70. Rearend gears and the trannys may have something to do with it (2.93 open in the 67 with a SP-300, 3.23 posi in the 70 with a TH-350-shift kit). I too was thinking of putting a better cam in my 70 (maybe TA's 212). I already have a TA intake (its a blem). I was also thinking of putting headers on it.
How to.... timing If I remember things right, there is tread some were here saying that 30* is 1 from the 0mark. There is another easy way to get a 10, 20, 30 or any other mark. Just turn the engine over so the mark on the harmonic lines up with the 10mark. Now you make a new mark at 0 this will be the 10mark. Turn over so this to line up at 10 and make a new mark at 0. This will be the 20* mark and so on.. Fire up, 20mark at 8 gives 28*. 30mark at 2= 32*. Or bye or borrow a dial back timing light (hope I got that name right) with this one you turn a knob at the back until the timing mark is at 0, then you read at the back of the light. The knob you turned has a scale witch now shoves you how many degrees you had. I think its easier to work with the marks. But first thing first, check that the mark at the harmonic rely is at 0*! Mine was not! (Btw. I got my 30mark at 13/4 just checked) Lars
I kinda figured you had the hi-comp motor, but wasn't sure. I think the difference in rated power might be dual vs. single exhaust. Thats the only thing I can think of. Lars is correct, 1.75" clockwise from the line on the balancer is 30*. I just took some masking tape, laid it out flat on my bench and cut off a piece 1.75" long. I then put this tape on my balancer. Where the tape ends is the 30* mark. This is very easy to see with a timing light. You then rev the engine up while watching with the light and make a note of the highest point the new 30* mark goes to. If it makes it to 0 on your timing tab, then you have 30* total. 2* would be 32* total and so on. You'll probably have to rev the engine to at least 3000rpm to make sure you have seen all the advance. Mine was all done at about 2900rpm, with a stock distributor. I'd also consider some head porting to go with that new cam. There have been some people on this board who have achieved 350hp. with minor head work and the right cam.
