Hi. I have 1972 Skylark convertible and just finished a 350->455 swap. Still running the 350 trans and 10 bolt rear (looks to be 8.5) I want a posi and better ratio. Will any 'A body' rear directly swap in? I've read varying opinions, including the 71-72 requires driveshaft shortening if you swap in certain a body 10 bolts. I'd do a 12 bolt too. Rebuilding what I have may be too much for me. thanks! -Dan
Only true bolt in deal is gonna your 8.5 or another like it anyway, be easier and cheaper to build yours even if you pay someone to do it, if memory serves me correct 12bolt will just need a diff u joint to connect to your driveshaft length I think will work, but a posi 12bolt is gonna be $1000 and up used
Thanks I guess what I was looking for is what cars share the same 8.5 10 bolt or 12 bolt. Does it have to be a 71-71 skylark, or will any A-Body do? I will call around for prices on a rebuild in my area.
71-72 skylark or same year cutlass rebuild to 8.6 spec can Also get direct fit prebuilt 12bolts with torino ends, currie 9 in and or a Strange S60 rear(strongest) if you desire can also convert to a full floater if you plan to auto-x roadrace car a good amount
yes 71-72 buick skylark or 71-71=2 cutlass/442/supreme or 12-bolt from Abody Chevelle or 70-72 monte any other 10bolt would be a downgrade I purchased all my parts through Monzaz here on this forum and a TA girdle from TA performance and rear disc from ebay. local shop rebuilt rear and did rear disc conversion for 450
Thinking about working on my ex-drag car, I started to accumulate notes on BOP 10-Bolts. Here's what I have so far:
Find "monzaz" on the board here and he can sell you parts to upgrade your rear end. Or if you want a bullet proof rear then have him build you a "moser 12 bolt" as they are a bolt in rear, you can even keep your driveshaft. I think i paid about 2300 for my moser 12 bolt from monzaz but it is built for about 1000 hp so it will be reliable. If u really want a strong rear end then either go with a moser housing or have a 12 bolt chevy housing welded to the tubes using a jig and then built up. Either way it costs money to do it right.
great stuff thanks for the responses. Car is weird to drive after this drivetrain swap - 2.56 peg leg, and a high stall converter 455, not sure I am liking how these converters feel.
I'm sure the 8.5 will be fine then since I'm setting out to make an all-out drag car or anything although I am curious how fast it is.
shame monzaz is in OH- I don't know if I can do the rear upgrade work myself although I could remove and reinstall the whole rear no problem. Can anyone recommend a place who can rebuild my 8.5 in SE PA area?
