In the past I've painted my bare cast aluminum pieces such as the alternator bracket, water pump, and timing cover, red. I'd like to stay with bare aluminum this time, as I'm starting to plan an alternator bracket replacement, and water pump. I've thought of leaving them truly bare, but the more recessed and shrouded areas may start to corrode over time. I've also considered aluminum colored paint, or vapor blasting.... vapor blasting would have the advantage of making old parts look newer where simply cleaning doesn't always yield great results. This is no show car (not even close) but I do like a clean engine compartment. I might address the cruddy looking alternator at some point, too.... paint, or blasted, to give the clean bare look? I'm not concerned with replicating the factory exactly, just so that it's clean and looks nice. My valve covers are matte black, for instance. This is a 4bbl 350, although, I suppose it doesn't matter, too much. How have you handled this?
Ever Brite. https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6 I've used it and it is easy to apply, and you can easily remove it with Xylene. (also used to prep surface) The satin is the best on cast aluminum as it does not look "wet", but you cannot tell anything is on it. Been 3 years, still looks the same. (TA Aluminum heads)
Looks good, but is pretty expensive for "paint", although, I guess vapor blasting isn't exactly cheap either. How did you apply it?
Less than $30, lasts for years, still have more than 1/2 a can. It has a "dauber" in the cap, you simply degrease (I used Xylene to ensure degreasing, then masked with "blue painter's tape" and spread it on. Took me all of about an hour to do all of that. (heads off the engine) Let it dry overnight before handling, pulled the tape off and put the heads on. As stated earlier, running for three years and they still look like they did before I installed them. Consider any other treatment for aluminum, and the fat that you can remove and reapply (using Xylene to remove) to parts while still installed vs. removing parts and re-treating them with other methods, this is a no brainer. You asked, I answered with a real world experience. And FWIW, it is not "paint", it is simply a clear coat that adheres to "properly prepped/cleaned" aluminum. I spent years using things like "Never-dull" polishing aluminum parts on my F-4E in the USAF back in the 1970's, trying to keep my Honda 750 Four aluminum shiny and wish I had known of "Everbrite". I don't recommend what I know and what works, lightly. You asked, I answered. If you don't think it works for you, move on and figure it out on your own. You; "I'm not concerned with replicating the factory exactly, just so that it's clean and looks nice." I answered exactly with a (one) solution that is proven to meet the request you made. (re-thinking this... my POV was applying to clean/bare aluminum, and not considering "cleaning/prep" of parts that may have excess of grease or long term exposure resulting in pitting (white powdery surface) requiring more in depth prep. So, if that is what you are looking at, it certainly changes the use of something like Everbrite.
Dauber sounds like the 4oz can. I guess it really goes a long way. Yes, thank you. Oh, I did not realize it was a clear coat. I just used the word paint since it's a coating, and also why I put it in quotes. Motorcycles with their center cases painted silver is actually some of the inspiration for this question. I'm getting the idea that you've taken offense to my response. I certainly do appreciate your taking the time to share how you addressed the issue on your own engine. It was not my intention to criticize or show disrespect. I can take care of grease easily enough, but old aluminum usually needs more, and I'm not sure the typical new modern water pump would look all that great either. I guess it depends on the maker. The alternator bracket I'm tentatively planning on buying new. The bigger issue would be the timing cover. I struggled to get it looking decent in the 90's and is why I started painting things red. On the other hand, I may skip the cover in the interest of getting the car running/driving.... still have brakes to do too.
Wow Mike, you convinced me! It's also avail on Amazon. There are extensive Q&A's there as well, with Everbrite tech support answering the questions. I was wondering if it could be used on carbs....it sounds like their Protectaclear would be a better product as it is more solvent resistant. Everbrite/Protectaclear may be my new go-to for protecting bare and plated metal on my restoration.
I've tried other products and they stop the corrosion but the aluminium gets dull over time. That looks great Michael!
I did, but it was my mis-reading your reply. That's on me. (without visual/audible cues, like face to face discussions) I took your post as how to keep natural aluminum looking good, but think I may have not comprehended well. Yes, cleaning/prepping old/stained and "pitted" aluminum would take some effort while parts are installed. I have used citric acid to remove aluminum oxide (also referred to as "pitting") it is a thin natural response to oxidation and will help prevent aluminum from further corrosion. It often "dulls" the surface or appears to "whiten", but it also holds dirt and grease and is why paint and other finishes flake or come off. That might be faster/less cost as DIY than vapor blasting. For "smooth castings" (coarse) media blasting would give it a "sand cast" finish. Then something like Everbrite to maintain. Personally, I don't care for silver painted aluminum, I either like natural (especially sand cast texture) polished, or a color paint. My brain can't stop saying: "Oh, look, it's silver paint trying to look like aluminum!" And then I will say(out loud): "Shut up and admire the effort!" and then people look at me cuz I am over here having a conversation by myself. Secretly I think their just jealous because the voices only talk to me...
That is one of the pitfalls of online communication. On the positive side it does allow for communication that wouldn't likely happen at all, given the vast distances. That certainly could be part of it. I'm willing to listen to all options. I didn't think about acids in this application. I've priced citric before, and locally it was expensive for a small amount. I could check again, Though. I wonder if vinegar or oxalic acid would work. I have a lot of vinegar on hand, and I may have oxalic in the form of wood bleach. I've also got a few commercial acid spray cleaners. After giving it some thought, I think I'm likely going to skip doing anything to the timing cover except some cleaning. I don't want to get into removing it from the engine this time around. I'll see what the new water pump and alternator look like, and possibly use the Everbrite on them. My thoughts have always been similar, but I'm starting to think it has it's place in some situations. First, I found that many motorcycle engines have their case halves painted, and only the side covers polished. Then I decided that I wanted bare aluminum valve covers on my BBC 454. After stripping my factory aluminum covers, it became apparent that they were never intended to be bare. I could see a lot of irregularities. I didn't want to "sand" blast them, as they were die-cast originally. The whole thing was an experiment, so I had them vapor blasted which did improve them, but still fell short of my expectations. I mounted them any way, and on the engine they're fine, especially after I applied an engine dressing to shine everything up.
Blasting can produce different finishes depending on the media used. Used glass beads will produce a white-ish matte appearance, while larger diameter NEW beads will slightly peen the surface and give it a shiny metallic sheen.... that's my favorite. JW previously wrote about vibratory tumblers to produce a finish which holds up very well. https://v8buick.com/index.php?threa...-looking-as-close-to-new.356308/#post-3052219
A lot of folks recommend Sharkhide products. Its big in the boating hobby: https://sharkhidestore.com/
