I have a 72 that is in pretty nice shape(you know.. evenings, from adistance anyways) I cant use the kids college fund to do a frame off. The body and engine compartment show off just fine. Its when I crawl under it and start poking around. It needs to be cleaned up. There isnt any rot but there is surface rust. Do I wanna just brush POR 15 all over the place. Or use a diferent product. Should i just leave it and see if the kids run away! If I were to do anything it would happen under the entire car not just spot treat. I am wanting to do something!!! . :3gears: :3gears:
Just keep in indoors in winter and should stay in the same state for years. POR is good but does not look right and will be a bear when time to get off.
Jerry, Greetings from a fellow Minnesota Buick guy. I've got exactly the same issue with my '71. I was planning to try POR on a section and see what results I get. If I get it done before you've made any decisions, I'll let you know what happens. Meanwhile, I'm really looking forward to laying on my back and getting a face-full of whatever falls off the floorboards. Jay
I used POR and was not unhappy with it. I will never be doing a frame off so will live with what I have. I do think that I might try the Eastwood stuff instead becuase it is not reactive to ultraviolet and comes in a spray can so you can get in places a brush cannot go to. Once or twice a year I just put it up on jackstands and enjoy a few hours cleaning and painting. Good enough for the girls I go out with.
Jay, have you been to summer nationals at the fairgrounds? Just wondering if I have seen your convert... (or maybe cruised university/north saint paul/anoka/hastings) Anywho, i would like more info on the eastwood product.
Dave - Set it up on some high jack stands, or a hoist (if your lucky enough to have access to one), get a good assortment of wire brushes, a good dust mask, goggles, and a old set of coveralls ! Be prepared to spend a lot of time, scrubbing 'n scratching. Use a good degreaser for grease or oil stains and finish the clean areas with rattle cans or a low pressure 'shutz' gun. Mask or cover ares that should not be painted (exhaust system, fuel 'n brake lines, emergency brake cables, etc.) It's a dirty job, and will take some time to do it properly. I just couldn't live with my Riviera, with the top side looking new, nice 'n shiny, and the original bottom still looking like a war zone. The job was made a little easier as there was no exhaust system, and the gas tank was off, along with all the old fuel and brake lines. It took me a about a month to do the 'frame on', and that time included sealing all the exposed seams in the floor bracing, and replacing all the missing parts, but it was well worth the effort. That was about 5+ years ago, and the underside still looks good. :TU:
Hi Jerry...the car really hasn't left Burnsville since I brought it up from Kansas City about 10 years ago. I bought it from my father in law--used to be my wife's daily driver when she was in college. Poor thing was basically stored from about 1984 until 2005 when I dropped a fresh 455 into it. It's basically solid, but needs a lot of detail work done. I have been collecting parts all winter and am now ready to do an AC delete, convert to disc brakes, rebuild the front end, replace all springs & shocks, radiator core support and some basic clean-up. I've ordered some replica ralley wheels (a bit larger than original!) and those are due to ship soon. This fall I'm planning to strip it & shoot it, and replace the top. I'll take care of the interior over the winter. So long story short, it's not ready for prime time yet...but I will get there! Would love to see your car this summer. Maybe we can compare notes? Thanks!! Jay
A pressure washer will certainly help to remove mud, dirt, grease 'n oil stains, but it doesn't do much on any of the rusted areas - that's where the wire brushing helps ! :TU:
There's not a one step solution (My wife says I need 12...). But, the pressure washer idea has merit. Most can be configured to allow additives in the water, so why not something like "Simple Green?" The only problem I see is having to be careful around the front end, so as not to wash grease out of the ball joints, etc. Does anyone know of a product the works like POR, but lays down like paint?
If you have a lift available , better if its a outside lift, rent or barrow a 3000psi 11- 13 hp pressure washer and get a wet sandblast atachment use fine sandblast sand, 40-65 grid. a couple of advanages of this system is that you can control what you are blasting, its easy to use, uses less sand,and isn't as messy as dry sand blasting. As stated earlier remove the exhaust, fuel tank,and lines etc. you will need to purchase a quart or two of osphlo. you can get this at "real paint stores" this will stop flash rust and you can paint over it at a later date.I've used this system for a number years on all types of equipment, loaders, mixers,trailers truck chassis, boat trailers ---oh yes cars too! I've noticed that this system seems to "heal" heavy pitted steel like frames and bumper brackets---it must be the high psi and fine sand
I'm just finishing up what rivman did. I did from the firewall forward when I did the paint body and motor as I had the front clip off. It looked great but the rest of the underside still looked like crap. When I changed the rearend last fall I did the new rear and the underside where the rear axle goes. Then this winter I was going to replace the exhaust so I cut off the exhaust, dropped the tank and did the rest of the underside. Always start by spraying with "Greased Lightning" degreaser and scrubbing with a parts brush then pressure washing with water. If there's no rust I then just scuff with a scotch brite and then spray bomb. I used Rustoleum "proffesional" (whatever!) semi gloss black. Comes in a big silver can and I just like the finish although its a little glossier that stock. If there's surface rust I use a DA sander w/80 grit and a combination of wire wheels on a drill motor. ( I burned my old one up and had to buy a new one) Then I hit the rust spots with Rustoleum's brand of rust encapsulator then the semi gloss black. Its gonna take a while and you're gonna get really dirty and you'll probably be sore from crawling around under the car but it'll look good when your done. And while its no frame off, anything you do will help preserve your car. And yes, taking off as many parts as possible will make the job must easier. Here's a pic of mine.
I've used a product called ZeroRust and I like it. I've also used POR15 and like it. I still use both. You can get ZeroRust in a spray can similiar to Eastwood. You can spray any of them from a gun, but buy a cheap gun from Harbor Freight and just throw it away when done - especially with POR15. ABSOLUTELY don't spray POR15 without a fresh air mask - the stuff is nasty - Isocynates. I beleive Eastwood and ZeroRust are much better for spraying. I've used some rust converter from Napa that is in a spray can - it works very well. I've also used POR15s Metal Ready and ZeroRusts Metal Prep. I don't think any of this stuff is very toxic - in fact, Metal Ready makes a point of that. It is probably just like Ospho or others. They all seem to work good. You just have to make sure to get all the rust scale, dirt, grease off. I really like those 2" 3M green 60 grit twist lock pads on a 90 or 120 degree angle die grinder/sander. Get's into tight places. I've spent many hours under one of my cars with these, wire wheels, flapper disks, etc and it's getting close. -Dan
Clean the bejeezers (2-3 complete cleans) out of the underside with a strong degreaser ( I really like the POR15 Marine Clean) scrub/wire brush and the stiff bristle parts washer brushes for the tight spots , scrape any loose appearing undercoating and let dry for a couple of days . Use a spray bottle and cover the underside with the Ospho / or SEM Rust Mort , after it's thoroughly dry wash it good again and paint with the Zero Rust . If it looks like it may be longer before you start a major rebuild it might be a good Idea to check and reseal the seams on the underside with the 3M Seam sealer in the caulking tubes then smooth that with a stiff bristle brush and then hit it again with some primer and the Zero Rust . I've used everything mentioned and have had great results . Steve
