Where to buy complete Rockers Kit for Buick 430

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by muckinger, Aug 6, 2018.

  1. muckinger

    muckinger Member

    Hi all,

    i need to replace all Rockers and Shafts in my 68er Riviera 430. Anyone knows a good shop where i can buy a complete kit with everything needed included? I just found a lot of different versions on http://www.taperformance.com, but they are very expensive and i'm not sure what really fits. Don't want to order something wrong, i'm from germany. Motor should be stock.

    Any recommendation is welcome!

    Thx
    Marcus
     
  2. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    '70 and newer is easy--order a pair of Melling MRS-665K at $135 each from Summit or Jegs or whoever.

    I don't know of a rocker-shaft-and-rockers kit for the '69 and older. You might be able to piece something together by buying the shafts, the rockers, and the plastic buttons separately.

    You could convert to the '70-newer style lifters and pushrods, plug an oil hole in the block deck, then use the '70-newer rocker shaft kits. If you're changing cam and lifters anyway, this would be ideal. If you want to retain your current camshaft, this isn't as appealing.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Marcus,
    Do not rely on the TA website, it is not very current, and you can't order from it anyway. It is very easy to simply download a pdf of the current catalog.

    http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/TAPerformance_Catalog.pdf

    Then you can look at it anytime you want right on your computer. You can buy reconditioned rocker assemblies. You have to send yours in as a core. Here is the page, yes it is expensive.

    TAReconRockerAssembly.JPG

    You want TA1300-400/430
     
  4. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    You may be able to use the later rockers on the 68 430 maybe not. Remember, after 70 the top end was oilied through the push rod and the 68-68 was oiled through the rocker bar via a hole in he block and rocker pedestal in the head. So the bar was hollow with caps on the ends. the newer 70 and up are solid.
     
  5. 65Larkin

    65Larkin Well-Known Member

    Been wondering about this myself.
    Always good information Larry. How can we identify which of the two possibilities of rocker assembly we have and which is the more desirable for durability and ratio please ?
     
  6. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    If the day ever comes when I go with aluminum heads and roller rockers on the Riv I'll have no choice but to change lifters and push rods + block the ports in the heads.
     
  7. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Given the price of the rebuilt rocker assembly, plus double freight (core from Germany to TA, then sending the rebuilt from TA to Germany) it makes little sense to NOT convert to the newer rockers, shafts, pushrods, lifters and gaskets.

    You'd get to inspect the cylinder bores, too.

    Start lining-up a cam and timing set while you're in there.
     
  8. muckinger

    muckinger Member

    Thx a lot for all the information!!

    To sum it up, there are 2 options, correct?

    1. Use the "Reconditioned Replacement Rocker Assemblies" from TA, but i have to send them upfront my Parts
    2. Use the Version after 70 that are oilied through the push rod, but some more parts need to be changed

    I'm not a technical guy, so would it be possible that you list here for both options what Parts i have to order to have everything needed?
    And is there a instruction on the internet that explains what to do to switch to the after 70 solution with different oiling?

    Thanks a lot folks and greetz from Germany!
     
  9. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Are the rocker shafts the same for early vs. late style rockers? How about the plastic buttons?

    SOMEWHERE I heard about an engine family where the rockers could be upgraded, but you had to position the rocker shafts differently based on pushrod oiling vs. oiling via the passage in the cylinder head. The oil holes in the shaft went "UP" for one system, and "DOWN" for the other. I don't remember which engine family that was--Buick Big Block, Buick Small-Block, Nailhead, Ford FE, Chrysler B-RB...I just don't remember.

    Melling supplies thicker-wall, stronger rocker shafts and the plastic buttons. IF (big IF) the rocker shafts and buttons are the same for both styles of rocker arms, it might be less expensive for this guy to buy just the shafts and buttons, then find someone local to re-bush his existing rocker arms, and recondition the rocker tips. Then there's no sending "core" parts back to the USA.

    OTOH, I don't trust aluminum rocker arms in terms of fatigue strength. "I" would want the newer, steel arms--preferably the Left and Right arms where needed, instead of the "Centered" arms in all positions.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2018
  10. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Pre 70 didnt use the nylon buttons. Had springs in between to keep the rockers spaced. I've run mine pretty darn hard and aint broke nothing yet
     
  11. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    If TA has a set of rocker arms ready to go order them and be done with it. Don't turn this into an unnecessary project. There is no sense in tearing the heads off if you don't have to plug holes. The 68-69 rockers are a fine setup
     
    Briz likes this.
  12. muckinger

    muckinger Member

    Update: The "Reconditioned Replacement Rocker Assemblies" from TA worked, everything is fine now... finally ;-)
    Thx for your support.
     
    Eddie M likes this.

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