I'm getting a new torque wrench soon and wonder which type people prefer, the "clicker" type or the bar type? Is there an advantage of one over the other?
I've had a clicker type for years, I think I'd rather have a bar type. If you leave the clicker-type set on a high torque value, it can take a "set", and not be accurate anymore, while the bar type always returns itself to 0. Plus, with a bar type, you can see the torque readings increase as you tighten the bolt, instead of the "on/off" nature of the click types... Whatever kind you get, keep it in its case and take good care of it.
I have both - If you are pulling high torque values it's hard to read the bar type indicator - you have to bend your head down to get a straight-on look while you are straining to turn the wrench. Its even harder with an extension which you are trying to hold straight up and down.... I've had to use a mirror to read the gage because of the position I was in, upside down under the car. ou: The clicker is much easier in this regard! Just remember to turn it down after use, like James said, and be gentle with it. - Bill :TU:
I vote clicker I've used a clicker and a bar, and I think the clicker is the better of the two. You do not have to read a scale, it is a set-it-and-go kind of thing. Do wind it down (just like the instructions say) after use, get a case, and get it calibrated every few years.
Get a snap-on clicker, just turn it to 0 every time and get the case. If you ever find you need a tight places one. You have them stick a 3/8in drive head on the 1/4in clicker toruqe wrench. One nice thing about snap-on.
They make other brands of tools? Ive had my Snap On for years. If you question the accuracy, you can always send it back to Snap On and they can check the calibration. They can also certify it as well. Although the certification is only good for a year. Mine goes from 50lbs to 250 lbs. I also have another that goes up to 50 lbs. In my professional opinion, if your going to spend your money on something, buy a quality torque wrench. Good tools last a lifetime. Think about what your going to be using it for. Probably stuff that requires some sort of accuracy. Check them out at www.snapon.com
Some click style torque wrenches have a ratcheting head. This is extremely helpful when torqueing to higher values. It's always a pain to run out of room when tightening a bolt. Yes I know it's not that hard to take the wrench off and reposition it, but it's one of those things that irks me when it happens. Brett
I must say that I prefer the "clicker" type, eventhough they require calibration. It is just too hard to read the scale on a bar style torque wrench if you are in a tight place or applying a lot of torque. Whatever you do, make sure you get a clicker wrench with a "locking collar" type of adjustment and not one with a lock nut on the bottom of the handle. The nut has a tendency to turn while you are torquing and the wrench will change torque values on you. It terms of brands I have tried, here is how I rate them: Powerbuilt - Crap Craftsman - Good SK Hand Tools - Better Stanley PROTO - Best If you wan't a really good deal on an SK wrench go to thetoolwarehouse.net. They have them on clearance right now. There model #74104 is on sale for less than $70 (includes storage case). That particular wrench lists for more than twice that (check out the following link): http://www.skhandtool.com/productcatalog.cfm?tok=1 Also, when you want to get your wrench recalibrated check I have had really good luck with Team Torque, Inc. (www.teamtorque.com). Here is a direct link to The Tool Warehouse torque wrench price list: http://thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW355.html
Beware of cheep clicker torque wrenches........I stretched the :shock: out of a rod bolt once with my old crapsman wrench. It became stuck, and with that much leverge on something with a 35 ft. lb. spec............needless to say, I had to get another rod bolt. ou: And a better torque wrench. :af:
Either style work fine depending on the job. Doing head bolts in the car with a bar type sucks. I don't mind using the bar type on occasion but I own a 1/2" and a 3/8" Snap-On click type for work. They each were in the $200.00+ range but on these late models you can not afford to be off. If you are just building one or two motors, a cheap ($80-100) clicker will do ok.They sure will bind/stick after long time use. I have had SK do this to me. My Snap-Ons have athumb scwer adjustment on the side with a protective lever(?) and do not need to be set back to 0, nor run up to full torque between uses. I would give serious consideration to Snap-On, Mac, or Matco If you plan to use it or keep it forever. Beam/bar tyoe do go back to 0, but constant bending/flexing of metal will work harden it over prolonged use. Buy good tools once, DO NOT lend them out, and you will have them forever.
When I get one it will click. I like the ratcheting, and the fact it will not over tighten past your setting.
Torque wrenches 101... Was told in school that the beam type wrenches were the most accurate but were the toughest for novices to use accurately and repeatably. Dial types are a great compromise and are a lot easier to use but they tend to be really freakin' expensive. Dials and beams are a necessary evil for checking pre-load on bearings though. First time you try to set up your own differential or rebuild a stearing gear box you will need one that reads inch-pounds and they are usually not cheap or easy to find. Last comes the "clicker". Clickers are supposed to be the least accurate of the bunch but tend to be the most repeatable for inexperienced torque wrench users. I've seen a lot of people that claimed to know what they were doing with a clicker that obviously did not . What you want to do is apply steady force until it clicks/gives way, then release. The common error I see is people putting a big ol' YANK on it til it clicks/gives then about 10 degrees of travel later they release. :error: Just my $.02 your mileage may vary!
The type my friends dad stole from GM just used them today for some brake changin on my mom's LeSabre.
No, you can keep right on tightening past the point when they click. The click is just a rod inside the handle suddenly overcoming the preset load. Once it clicks, you can keep right on honking down...but should stop.
Buy Quality But a quality tool. I have owned the same three Snap-on torque wrenches for over 25 years. I have had them recalibrated as needed to keep them in proper working order. You like the bar type for setting bearing preload and click type for everything else. And don't drop it. Snap-on does not give a lifetime warranty on torque wrenches.
