How serious is all that, "I'm good on the driveshaft shortening part, but what does the narrowed part matter ?
I think the '67 rear is a c-clip 8.2 rear with bolt on springs. It will physically bolt up to the control arms but as has been stated, you'll need your wheels to handle the narrower length axles, potentially alter the drive shaft and probably need an adapter u joint to go from chevy (1310 = outside c-clips) to Buick (3R = inside clips) to get it to actually work under there.
Option 1. So is it worth the $100, the guy wants for it ? Up grade to a 10 bolt posi, 3.73 gears. Option 2. know of a 12 bolt, single traction, out of a 72 monte carlo, for $300 and upgrade that ? Which is better ? non raceing or track car, just a weekend cruiser with a 455/400 setup.
You didn't mention why you wanted to change it but the Chevelle 8.2 10 bolt won't be an upgrade from what you have now unless all you want is something to bolt in with a different ratio. I'd go with the 12 bolt, then upgrade it later with a posi and gears of your choice. It'll be a lot stronger than the 8.2.
Already done a few engine mods, (intake, carb, headers, distrubutor system) No need for the engine upgrades, if only one wheel smokes. the 69 chevelle rear is an 8.5 72 Monte Carlo is a 12 bolt
Just to clarify, a `69 Chevelle never came with an 8.5 so if it is one it must have come from a donor car.
Ok - my turn- 1967 - rear is a 10 bolt chevy 8.2 rear IF it si in good condition for 100.00 THAT is a steal...PERIOD! 300.00 12 bolt single wheel peel is pretty fair price also BUT will need alot of parts and require labor for set-up your talking about another 1000.00 to get that done. NOW the 1967 narrower rear SHOULD not make any difference as long as you are not already maximum tread in the wheel wells. all you need is a 1/2" extra on each side from the inside -side way to the inner fender well. Strength factor - you would be loosing a little strength and your bolt in axle going to the 3.73 67 10 bolt 8.2 rear BUT for the price and ease of install IT MIGHT be worth it. ALL you need is a u-joint swap chevy to BOP u-joint (precision 372 / neapco 3-3130 / spicer 5-3022X) NO SHORTENING OF THE DRIVE SHAFT NEEDED... What I would do - Buy BOTH the 12 bolt and the 3.73 - install the 3.73 have some fun and leisurely build the 12 bolt chevy over a year and the following year install it into your car and again you will NOT NEED any drive shaft mods. Sell the 3.73 to a chevy guy for more than you paid initially. DONE! Jim J D :3gears: :3gears: :3gears: :3gears: :3gears: :TU:
Update time: And today was the day, $300 for a 12 bolt 2.73 rear, out of a 72 Monte Carlo, "Pick up next weekend". Figured i'll let it sit, till i can get a posi unit for it. Now it's time for my next issue/question, what is a good ring and pinion setup, for me. 455/400 tranny, allot of weekend cruiseing, and even some highway driven. No track useage. Now i'm thinken 3.73, but been told thats a bit high for highway use, so what do you all think ?
No 3.73 - 3.42 3.55 max. if you are going distances and only have 3 speed tranny 3.08 3.31 hanging around town more often and minimal freeway to shows etc. 3.42 3.55 street strip 3.73 my Opinion is in.
What speed do you cruise, what RPM do you want to turn at cruise and how tall are your rear tires? It is a simple calculation to figure out the gears from there. The formula is (Rear Tire Diameter x RPM) / (336 x MPH) = Rear Gear Ratio So, a hypothetical car that you have 275/60-15 tires on that you want to cruise 3000 RPM at 70MPH is (28x3000) / (336x70) = 3.57 which is real close to 3.55.
