Wiring an alternator for wide open???

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by BuickLeSabre1960, Apr 18, 2005.

  1. BuickLeSabre1960

    BuickLeSabre1960 Hot Dogs Anyone?

    I'm doin a little project and I need a alot of amps for it. So i'm thinking of using an alternator Ive got lying around and a motor. The only problem is I've seen it before but how do I wire it so it'll make power the whole time?
     
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Well, you can "full field" a GM alternator and make it put out its maximum rating. I have only used this in the past for testing purposes only. I don't know how long it will run "full bore" before it burns out. That being said, if its a GM external regulator alternator, you can jump the "F" terminal to the BAT terminal. On certain GM alternators with the D shaped testing hole you can insert a screwdriver blade (no more than 3/4 inch) into the D-shaped testing hole in the alternator end frame. When the screwdriver contacts both the metal tab and the alternator housing, the regulator is being bypassed. Naturally, this test is for alternators that are installed in a running car. Your going to have to adapt it for use in whatever your playing with. I would get ahold of a Buick service manual that has the wiring diagrams.
     
  3. BuickLeSabre1960

    BuickLeSabre1960 Hot Dogs Anyone?

    it's a kind of newer alternator internally regulated, I'm pretty sure it's a 12-si. It is a very large alternator and it has the 6 cooling vents in the back. Does this help any??
     
  4. StreetStrip

    StreetStrip Well-Known Member

    If your using a motor to turn the alt. Just gear it so it turns it at full. I remember looking at under drive sets once and they said....... stock full amps 1700RPM, under drive full amps 2800RPMs. The under drive gearing raised the full amp RPM. [So it lead me to believe.] But I'm sure stock alt gearing puts out full juice at some normal driving RPM speed to keep a full power car powered at idle or near.
     

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