OK, I finished up two of my GS Cowl Induction hoods. One hood is already spoken for, so one is still available. This is a bolt on fiberglass hood for a 70-72 Skylark / GS that I build. The cost is $550 plus shipping. The $550 includes the box and crating material I use. I use Freight Quote which gives me 5 or 6 quotes from various shipping companies, I don't mark this cost up . I will take the hood to the freight company in Phoenix to save you pick up cost. I also quote it to the nearest freight company based on your address. I can get it to your house, but it raises the cost. The last 3 hoods I've shipped have cost about $250 each to ship. Not cheap, but this is beyond my control. The last thing is that I have a FAQ I like to send to any potential customer so he knows exactly what he's getting. It covers how the hood is built, prep & mounting. It's about 1.5 meg, so I can't attach it to this page. If you're interested, I can e-mail it to you first. As a side note, I will take $200 from this sale and send it to the V8Buick board for support since the only place I've sold a hood from at this point is this board. Figure it's fair payback! I will be building more hoods as well. They can also be configured as a lift-off and without the airbox if desired. Craig mltdwn12@q.com
Not in line- just wanted to add that Craig makes a very nice hood! Top notch and great guy to deal with. Here is a shot of my '72 in epoxy primer just before I put it up for the winter. I'm really surprised this hood is not spoken for. Even with shipping, the price he gets is more than fair. Dave
Thanks for jumping in Heavy D. Yes I still want one of these:Brow: The car is just now getting prepped for paint so the timing should work out pretty good. Pm sent.
I currently run a TA SP-1 intake, 1" spacer, a Holley carb and a 3" open element air cleaner. There's still about 2" above the air cleaner lid. The factory style air cleaner will not work unless you raise the air cleaner foam sections. I made this isolater to seal the air cleaner to the hood so it just breathes air in from the windshield cowl. I can also build it without the airbox as well. Craig
I can see if I can convert it, what format would work? ---------- Post added at 06:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:40 AM ---------- FAQ sent today
Can you send it in a pdf format. I opened it and read it but can't get word to reopen it, not a big deal if you can't, I saved it in my phone with quick word.
I would like the FAQ sent if you don't mind. does the faq answer as to weight with and without airbox compared to a stock hood and can you still use factory AC with this hood. Thanks Tim Buickgsfan@aol.com
FAQ sent. It doesn't specifically address the airbox weight, but I can tell you, it adds about 11 pounds to the hood. To be honest with you, I never though about the A/C function. The airbox doesn't seal 100% on the cowl, so I would think some air could get down to the cowl to duct. If you wanted to get more air to the cowl duct, you could put a few holes in the bottom of the airbox where it lines up over the cowl. ---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 PM ---------- Tom, sent one in PDF.
Craig In the FAQ you suggest using hood pins, I really would not want pins. Could an angle bracket be glassed in while the hood is being made which I could then drill a hole in to use a spring loaded pin or latch from the underneath. The pins/latch could be pulled by a cable attached to the hood latch pull while opening the hood in the normal fashion.If that is too much could a piece of aluminum be added during construction to run the width of the front of the hood so the factory latch would be sufficient. this would be my preferred method. The FAQ answered my weight question.:TU: Thanks Tim
If you look at the picture in #7, you'll see I use Moroso foam on the air cleaner pan to seal the air cleaner to the hood airbox