The 200 will give you similar results as the 275 gear set I mentioned. But overdrive will be useless, with a 2.56 rear end. The rpm drop into overdrive will be like what your getting now into third. Too much drop . No power band. And the work needed to run an overdrive,( lockup kit, trans cable to carb, trans cooler, converter is pricey , full throttle up shift kit, and rebuild to accept the power your putting out with upgrades for strength) That’s why I mentioned the gear set, it should help offset the highway gears in rear end. It does seem lean as plugs are not discolored much at all.
a 2200 stall will work good with the stock transmission and stock gears? I mean obviously I would like the 275 first gear that you recommended. But I don't want to end up overeating my transmission which I heard can be a problem with a stall converter
The combination of the 2.56 gears, the cam, and the single plane intake is a recipe for disappointing performance. The first thing you need to do is get better gears. I would want 3.42 gears. Then you can get a converter. There is no such thing as a 2200 stall converter. Converter stall depends on engine torque, car weight, and GEARING. The same converter will stall at different RPM in different cars depending on the previously mentioned factors. Get the gears first, then order a good converter. FORGET off the shelf. Get a 9.5" from Jim Weise. It will be right the first time. A Sumitt or Jegs converter will be a crap shoot. You get what you pay for when it comes to converters. If you buy one built for YOUR car, it will not be too loose, and it will not overheat the ATF. It will feel like a stock converter until you lean on it. That's the difference between cheaping out and buying it right the first time. Once you do that. THEN get the double pumper carburetor, and tune it. DO NOT go smaller than 750. DO NOT get a vacuum secondary carburetor.
I say 373 minimum. These 350's don't have 500+ ft lbs of torque or coffee can size pistons, so you need the help of the gear ratio....
I agree. Between gears, and a good converter, it will get that engine revving into it's happy point, and then keep it there which is 90% of his problem.
Larry’s information is very good. Yes the 3.42 gears would be the right way to go. The 275 gear in trans will help no matter what rear end gear you have because of gear multiplication. As far as overheating trans, that’s most people using the wrong converter, on the wrong combination. Usually too much converter, and usually no cooler. I ran a tci 2800 converter on my 350 years back, in a 77 regal. It stalled 2400. That was it. No more. Just not enough power from engine. Never had an issue , even hiway drives. But did bring rpm to a useable power range . Ratings on converters are kinda bs. As Larry mentioned , a lot affects it. But an auxiliary cooler would be better for someone concerned about heat. Biggest concern is stop and go driving when slip occurs. Once at 45 mph, it’s pretty much gonna be constant in its stator position. So heat should be minimal. And 2200 rating is stock for some engines. If you do anything about a converter that’s not a custom built one, look at small block rated . You have a small block. They will be closer to rating. I currently run a jegs converter. It stalls very close to rating . But having only alittle miles, I can’t say much about quality. I can tell you the tci I had got a lot of miles. And abuse. Brake torque with stock gears and N50-15( huge huge tires) . I believe the 275 gear will help you all around , and I’m believing you have a problem with a clutch pack or sprag inside trans. Causing your “ fall on face “ Acceleration after shifting to third. Something that is a issue to you as you mentioned many times, but no one is addressing. I have had this issue only with second gear. It felt like it was too much top end gear with no acceleration. Sprag was broken, B&m shift kit was too harsh. And I abused it. You need to look more at the Transmission to confirm you have a problem with third gear.
Yeah but my ngk plugs were black from my stock 2 barrel before rebuild. less than 1000 miles. I think it's running way too lean now. I will get the carb asap either way. Nobody with a 350 single plane has had success with anything other than a double pumper.
I would definitely consider a stall made by jim, also when I punch it at cruise it almost dies. From my understanding that's all carb.
When the time comes I will probably just order a new turbo 350 that comes with this gearing. Mine is 50 years old.
That's way too rich. I'm saying that even if your jetting was spot on, don't expect to see much coloring on the plugs until they have been in there for awhile. Not sure whether you are aware of this or not, but the SP3 is a relatively new intake. I have not seen much of a feedback or evaluation of that intake except from Mark Demko. He could not make the Q-jet work without some kind of bog. He went with a DP carburetor and that did it. I run an SP1 intake, and have run my Q-jet on it without issue. It is seamless when transitioning to various throttle openings, and runs great. I also have an AED 1000 HO double pumper carburetor I use at the track. It is consistently 1-2 tenths, and 1-2 MPH faster than the Q-jet. I initially thought that my experiences would be the same with the 350 and SP3, but I was mistaken. Obviously, it is apples and oranges. I didn't think that AVS carburetor would work, but you went ahead and bought it based on advertising hype you read somewhere. That was a mistake, but sometimes that's the way you learn. There is a ton of information here that you should take advantage of. Listen to the guys here who have experience with the 350, not HOT ROD, or any other magazine. Your problem is you have a mismatch of parts. Gears and converter will get you 90% to where you need to be. With the information I have from reading here on V8, I think you will need a DP carb, unless someone has made the Q-jet work with the SP3. I would do that last though.
I had all of the parts including the carb before I ever joined here. I dealt with tim from TA when ordering parts. I mentioned the avs2 to him. He said it should work well.
I think Tim was wrong. Seems the sales staff are wrong often there. Especially with carbs. Now it’s about how to fix it. Try tuning carb more until you get into the decision to change it. You may get more from carb. But you seem to be getting better with it.Or maybe you can trade it off. Check with some Chevy sites . Maybe trucks . I understand the avs is good for the low torque mudding trucks?
I will put the carb on my 1985 k20 with a 406 small block. It needed a carb anyway. Tim even recommended the 650 cfm absolutely no bigger lol. TA is awesome over all but yeah he should have recommended a 750 double pumper.
IMO, no AFB clone can hold a candle to a well calibrated Q-jet. I remember you mentioning something you read about that AVS carburetor, sounded like advertising hype. TA doesn't always give the best advice unless you are talking to Mike Sr. or Jr.
This has given all of us some knowledge of what to expect. But also confirmed that the sp3 has certain needs . I was thinking of the intake for my 350, I do have the 310 cam and hi compression pistons ,heads milled. 2700 converter,3.73 gears. Unfortunately the rules for the gs National class says painted dual plane is acceptable. That’s the only class I can be competitive in vs big blocks and turbo cars.
3 or more magazine articles tested the avs2 with annualar boosters and loved it. All throttle hesitation problems were solved supposedly with this carb. I actually had a very nicely built 355 in a Firebird that I had a few years ago and it never ran to my liking with the original performer Edelbrock and I swore up and down I'd never own an Edelbrock carburetor again. But the annualar booster and great product reviews swayed me. I MADE A HUGE MISTAKE. But it should be a good carb for my 406 small block. I can have the carburetor off in 5 minutes completely rejected and back together and back on the car LOL. Not that I'm proud of that or anything. But I've done it 6 times this week alone. For the hell of it I'm going to restore it back to stock jetting but leave the big pump nozzle on it and see how it runs
