Went to my auto parts store and there was literally one brand of conventional oil in 10w-40. Everything they had was synthetic, 0w or 5w something. There were some conventional oil but all of them were "high mileage" oil. Honestly, what's the deal with that? Anyway, after scanning the rack for 25 minutes, the only conventional oil thst was just "regular" oil was the STP brand, "pro formula" in a black bottle. I hesitate to start a "what's your favorite oil thread" but what oil is readily available in a 10-40 these days? I also asked if they had wiper refills....sigh
I've been noticing 10-40 getting less and less shelf space over the last couple years. Makes sense as nothing new in the last 30 years uses it. I order it by the case.
I bought 2 cases of the Valvoline VR 10W30 from Amazon when it was $30 case, wish I would have bought more. Currently its at $48.39 case. Tried to buy Lucas Bearing grease for my boat trailer and NAPA said they have not been able to get it for months. Starting to feel like I live in Cuba or something.
You might try Tractor Supply or similar. I also found the best price on Group 24 batteries there a couple years ago. Patrick
So I guess the real question is, is that STP pro formula oil any good? I bought 5 quarts and a bottle of Lucas break in additive
We have a commercial account with NAPA and they said they weren’t selling conventional oil any longer. The conventional stuff they carry is blended with synthetic. Sign of the times I guess.
I noticed this also I have to break in a cam and need some regular oil after the break in oil for cam, need to find something. Even Summit Racing is low on oils
Jason, Napa still has 10w-30 oil in their own brand, part number 75-130. We use that at the shop for the older junk. Hit it with some zinc if you are worried about that. Or Lucas Hot Rod oil 10w-30 10679, includes zinc. I get that from Napa too. When the VR-1 costs as much or more than Lucas, it was a no brainer to switch. I have never been a fan of 10w-40 oil. Too much manufactured spread IMO.
I run 20w/50, Valvoline VR which is currently available at local chains here in Omaha but much less on Amazon … I get emails from VP racing too, they offer high zinc oils similar to VR series but have never used Options if you’re looking for that thinner viscosity
The correct oil is available from the major parts houses, and many speed shops/performance machine shops. Using the right oil probably will not require that 20wt in the summer, unless that thing is really worn out. Viscosity breakdown with heat is a big deal, and the break in version of this oil is the only one I have found in dyno testing that minimizes thermal breakdown. We are talking about 10psi or so, in the same engine, same oil temp... generally speaking, oils that carry the API seal require a certain amount of viscosity loss to meet the testing standards, this comes in the additive package in those oils, and should be avoided. Engine oil for our older engines, especially any type of performance engine does not exist in the local auto parts store anymore.. Some sell Royal Purple or a Lucas product, which are ok in a pinch, but you need to be looking elsewhere for the proper oil. This is the weight your asking about, although I would recommend the HR-2 all year round.. if your engine is really worn out then you might have to use the HR-1 which is 15wt.. There should never be a need for 20wt oil on any Buick engine. Both oils have a unique oil storage additive specifically designed for cars that are not daily driven. Cost is not a consideration here.. penny wise and pound foolish would be the expression in use here, if you don't believe that I will send you the estimate to correctly rebuild your GSX engine. It's gone up almost 20% in the last couple years, and never was inexpensive.. https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497...XkEKhZX3PJ09_OsRW0lNFHrWI6UetajBoCn_YQAvD_BwE JW
We have in stock our Napa 10w40 in the blue bottle. And it is 100% Valvoline, that is repackaged in the Napa bottle.
That is not fully true. Sure, with the more common weight's that is the case (no pun intended). but in our 10w40 your getting conventional... At least at Napa.
I started off with the conventional HR-2, and after a year, I went to HR-4. It's synthetic, and I change it once a year since I usually don't go more than 2000 miles. https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497803-hr2-10w-30-conventional-hot-rod-oil.html https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497805-hr4-10w-30-synthetic-hot-rod-oil.html I run 7 quarts in my SRE pan. Comes up to the add line on my stock dip stick.
Ok so now with all of that being said. To make it more confusing, almost all the oils out there that were conventional, that are now labeled blends...like our other blue bottled weights are the same oils from years ago. Funny how our other weights were change to being labeled as blends but the price didn't go up one penny. So I asked our rep that. It is because they can now get away as advertising the SAME oil as a blend...Because! of the package that is added into the conventional anyway. So our other blue bottle oil that's labeled as blend now, is the exact oil from a couple years ago just without the "blend" on the label. Why the 10w40 isn't labeled as a blend i don't know why. I'll have to ask....but I think I know why
https://inrccca.org/product/classic-car-motor-oil/ DA oil company has been around for a long time. Maybe this niche product could be of benefit .
