1/4 panel replacement

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by Ricardo Booker, Oct 29, 2012.

  1. Ricardo Booker

    Ricardo Booker Well-Known Member

    I want to replace the rusted sections my self. I have done floor panels but never 1/4's. Looking for some guidance here, I did order a full stamped 1/4 panel. I question is can I just cut out the lower section of the new panel and only use it? Or should I try to replace the entire panel? Seems like the entire panel would be an over kill, when the upper portion is fine? 69 Lark14.jpg 69 Lark13.jpg 69 Lark12.jpg 69 Lark11.jpg 69 Lark10.jpg 69 Lark9.jpg 69 Lark8.jpg 69 lark7.jpg 69 Lark5.jpg IMAG0463.jpg IMAG0461.jpg
     
  2. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    First thing you need to do is strip and clean up all ther usted area. That way you know what you are actually working with. I would not cut up a new qtr panel; you can buy some of those small pieces. It looks like you might be able to save the original panel but you must get it bare first. Cut it back to good metal and post back.
    <o:p></o:p>
    Nelson

    PS; pictures helped
     
  3. kingdaddycreel

    kingdaddycreel Well-Known Member

    If you have done floors you should have no trouble doing this repair. Just be careful with the heat when welding. I would get a 1/4 skin and section the quarter. Minimum needed if you would like to retain most the original quarter. You will find that rust extends alot more than you think one striped.



     
  4. Ricardo Booker

    Ricardo Booker Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the advice. I have already ordered the full 1/4 my thought was worse case I would have the entire panel if needed but if not I could section the panel. Once the panel comes in I will start stripping the paint down. Another question is what is the best way to weld the replacement piece in? I have always heard but weld but now I am seeing people create flange and over lap. Just hate to do all that work then be able to see a seam after metal moves or a crack. Floor pan is covered so it is a little easier.
     
  5. kingdaddycreel

    kingdaddycreel Well-Known Member

    Butt weld is the cleanest but requires more skill not to warp the metal. Flange for long areas is easier as far as fitment and welding and if not experienced is the best method. There may be some areas in the repair that even though flanging may need butt welding anyway to get the panel on there correct. If butt welding leave a nice 30 or 40 thousand gap for the weld and metal to expand. Spot weld panel slowly and then stitch weld small areas using air to cool before moving on. Either way will be find just depends on your skill level and what your going after. make sure you use a small coat of fiberglass on the repair before filler work. Seam seal or glass the back area if possible. That will waterproof the repair.
    If you want to get the feel , pratice on some old sheetmetal to get your heat and technic correct.:TU:




     
  6. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Here is how mine were done and it turned out really well.... Just need to have the paint sprayed and it will be done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. 1972 Stage 1

    1972 Stage 1 Well-Known Member

    These won't work for the entire wheel opening, but may be cheaper and easier than cutting a full quarter up if the areas around the wheel opening is not too bad.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/261120939571
     
  8. Ricardo Booker

    Ricardo Booker Well-Known Member

    Wow, great work. Did you do it yourself? Do you have any shots of the cut out, and how you tacked the new skin in? Did you use a flange if not how did you hold the panel in place for welding?
     
  9. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

    These work great.

    Nelson


    [​IMG]




     
  10. Ricardo Booker

    Ricardo Booker Well-Known Member

    I have some, 4 to be exact. My thought on them is when your done, those big blocks will fall behind the quarter, and we may not be able to fish them out. I guess you could with a magnet going in from the drain hole in the back side.

    I remember a friend that had a special type, maybe spot weld gun to make those perfect tack welds. I forgot the name of it and where to buy it. But you can do the same thing with a simple MIG. I am glad to have this conversation, because this is building up my confidence. I think once the panel comes in the mail, I will be ready to go ahead and do it.
     
  11. Ricardo Booker

    Ricardo Booker Well-Known Member

    Ha Guys, it has been over a year since I created this thread. Well I finally got the guts/time to cut into the quarter, the pics tell it. Look like so far I need the lower part 0f the trunk ext, the lower 1/4, and around the wheel well. I have the skin. I have to finish removing around the wheel.
    My questions are as follows:
    Can I cut the patch out the skin as one piece and weld it in, or do I have to replace the whole skin?
    Where do I get the lower piece for the trunk extension?
    How do I handle the wheel house lip?
     

    Attached Files:

  12. robertsregal

    robertsregal Member

    Depending on what you have for a replacement quarter panel, quality of panel, I would put the whole panel on. My experiance 25 years in the auto body repair field you get a better repair with less body work required. Now if you have a poor replacement panel it can be a challange weather you do all or patch panels.
     

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