Okay, got the new rubber line on today and started it up and let it run until warm for the first time off the gas tank. Took awhile, but it finally would idle. Tapped the VR, but no change, GEN light still on. Also noticed a pinhole in the metal gas line which runs under the passenger compartment. Lucky it was close enough to the end where we could remove less than a foot of the line and run the rubber line a little farther back. I would really like to replace the entire line with a new one, it measures out around 95 inches. Anyone know of a source for these? BTW, also sprung a leak in the bottom of the radiator, aren't old cars fun!
'61's & '62's have a little fuse on the regulator terminal. Time & age makes them very brittle & I'll almost be willing to bet it's broken or blown out. To test use an ohm meter or just remove it & hook the wire directly to the terminal on the regulator. If this works find another fuse.
Cool, thanks I will give that a shot. Also I've been searching online for exhaust parts, looks like the hardest part to find will be the crossover or Y pipe. It is rusted out where the pipes come together so I need a new one. I found a complete system from a couple of places on the net, cheapest was around $250.
I love them to death, but it's frustrating waiting on another installment of money to come in so I can sink that into it! :rant:
Well, I can only assume this is supposed to be a fusible link as there is no fuse visible in that line. With it disconnected at the VR, it measures 9-10 ohms, which I assume is about right for a fusible link. I guess I am on to the next possibility. I did find another VR in the trunk of the old car, so perhaps this trouble has been with the car for awhile. The one in the trunk doesn't look any newer than the one which is on the car, so I suppose it's time to do some testing as outlined in the service manual.
It's NOT a fusible link or a style of type of fuse you would expect. It's more like a square block that the battery wire, red, is attached to then connected to the terminal of the regulator. If it's not there then it's already been removed in the past. It's main purpose, just like a fuse, is to protect the circuit.
Well I didn't remove the tape from the wiring harness, but it goes from the BAT terminal of the VR with a group of wires. I just assumed it goes to the junction terminal where the horn relay is and the battery cable hooks up do. That is where I took the reading with the ohmmeter and it read 9-10 ohms.
Also got the heater core out today. What a bitch of a job that was. The leak was pretty bad, the lower edge of the firewall is fairly rusty, but I think it will be okay once it's cleaned and new gasket material is fitted.
My brother-in-law came up today and hooked up the drive shaft. We started it up to see if it would move. It goes forward and backward! Could not go far as the brakes are not working. The transmission is low on fluid, I know it calls for Dextron, but can Dextron II or III be used instead? Also the power steering calls for ATF type A, what is that?
HOORAY! It moves on it's own!:TU: It's okay to use Dextron II and Dextron III in the Dynaflow. But, use the Type A in the steering.
This is apparently a hot topic on some of the forums as I've been reading all about the pros and cons of using Dextron III in place of type A. It seems to me that if Dextron II and now III was made to replace Dextron, which replaced the original type A, then it should be fine to use it. Some say to use regular PS fluid, but I think I will go with Dextron III in the Dynaflow and the PS.
That's more or less the conclusion I came up with. Like I said, the cars been run this way for 10+ years, and aside from blowing the front seal on the transmission (from an unrelated issue) everythings been perfect.
ou:You'll have a hard time finding "A". As, they don't make it any more. (Sheesh, what was I thinking?) Dextron III is what to use.
No doubt, funny I remember type A now when I was young. There was basically two types, A and F. A was for GM and Chrysler I believe, while F was for Fords. I don't really remember when the whole Dextron change took place as I recall it still said type A on the can even though it was Dextron. Eventually the type A disappeared. Hope to get the cap off the brake master cylinder this weekend and see what is wrong with the brakes. I'm hoping it's just a matter of a busted line, but with my luck it will be something more serious I'm sure. :eek2:
Anyone have any thoughts on alternator conversion? I saw some good articles on the net and even a kit for the conversion. Just curious on how difficult it is from someone who did it. It actually looks to be the cheapest way out in addition to a more reliable system. I liked this one the best of all I saw: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml
