Hey guys I just bought a '65 skylark with a 3004v engine, I read somewhere that these engines came with something like 250hp and 315lb/ft of torque! Has anyone stumbled across a web site or have info on how to crank these up a little 275/300Hp would be nice. I would like to stay with the 300 just because it is a little different than what everyone else has. An older mechanic told me that a little head porting, dual exhaust, Hei ignition would help this engine and he claimed that they worked pretty good right from the factory with the switch style convertor, although I plan on a 200R swap. :bglasses:
Hey Chris there is a fellow named Sean Easton that has done some amazing work with that little motor. How does 12.72 @ 105mph sound:eek2: Go to the Buick Club of America website and in the Performance forum do a search under The little engine that could. This should bring up two pages of discussion on some of what he has done. Welcome to the world of Nailheads and pinheads!:TU:
Thanks for the replys!!! The single exhaust thats on this thing is pretty narrow in a few spots so I imagine a dual exhaust will help a lot. And thanks for the link to that hot rod 300.
300 build-up Hello Chris, I have a 300 in my '64 that I've heated up a bit with mostly bolt-on or bolt in parts. Much to my surprise and delight, the 300 is a very responsive engine, so you will see noticeable results with the right match-up of parts. Today my motor has 1965 heads, intake and a Carter Comp Series 500 cfm carb. The cam is a Kenned-Bell Mk2 hydraulic (Poston offers the same cam also), K-B, pushrods, stock 10.25:1 pistons, Poston headers, 2.5" exhaust, and a TA performance oil pump. The car idles at 800 and revs over 5000 easily. With 3.55 gears, a stock T300 transmission and 3010# weight, the car is quick enough off the lights, very easy to drive, has a nice exhaust note. Words of caution: many parts suppliers, even Buick specialists, try to substitute 350 parts for the 300. Some work, like the front cover. Others don't, like oil pump rebuild kits. Always specify the year of your motor. There are minute differences between the '64 and later motors that can be frustrating. the clearance to the intake manifold is very tight using a GM HEI ignition. You may have to gently hand grind the #1 intake runner. Also, the MK2 cam builds substantially more heat in the motor than the stock cam. I replaced the stock radiator with a new cross flow design and 160-degree thermostat. Temps now stay in the 170-200 range, depending on traffic and the weather. Finally, Sean Etson's email is buick3001964@yahoo.com. He helped me a lot. Also contact McClelland Racing in Orrville, OH at Macfast222@aol.com. They have hands on experience with the 300 heads. Good luck. Mark
When comparing horsepower with modern cars, keep in mind that the method of calculation changed in 1972. The specs shown in 1971 and 1972 catalogs generally dropped about 22-25 percent. So, my 260 hp engine would be about 195 in modern terms.
I have a '65 Skylark with a stock 300 and dual exhaust. The car is responsive but by no means fast. My 300 has a 2 barrel intake though. Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket 4 barrel? I have been unable to find any aftermarket or stock 4's.
No aftermarket intakes for the 300... You may be able to find one in the parts wanted or parts for sale sections...
300 cam specs The K-B Mark 2 grind that I have in the motor has .475" and .488" lift on the intake/exhaust, respectively. The duration is 270/278 degrees and 110 degree overlap. Nice power curve from about 1500-5500 rpm. Idles around 800 rpm. I used with the original gears for a while, 2.73:1, I think. No problem with bogging on the low end, just a slow wind up. It really works well with the 3.55 gears that are in the car now.
On the question on aftermarket four barrels for a 300 ci engine, the Carter 500 cfm carb is a bolt on unit that can be ordered through most suppliers. This unit will fit with the least amount of hassle with linkages. A guy who owned and raced many 300 engines had a thread on another board a few years ago with his calculations that a 300 could not use more than 500 cfm unless it was extremely modified.
isky i called isky and had them costom grind it for me. have lots of info ready when ya call , car weight ,usage head type intake type, carb type and size, gear ratio comp ratio and anything else ya thing might help they were very helpfull and listened and made suggestions and we came up with a grind that works. and for the record best et is now 12.65:stmad: smoking woohoo amazing what a good torque convertor can do
Here is a list of stainless bolts to assemble a 1965 300 from www.totallystainless.com Hope someone can use this: Bolts From Totally Stainless for 1965 300 Engine Intake Manifold 10 3/8-16 X 1 Indented Hex IHH2-0093 Water Pump 1 5/16-18 X 5 Hex Cap Screw HSC2-0138 3 5/16-18 X 4 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0137 1 5/16-18 X 1 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0124 5 -20 X 1 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0105 Carburetor 4 5/16-18 X 1 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0124 Fuel Pump 2 5/16-18 X 1 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0124 Thermostat 2 5/16-18 X 1 Indented Hex w/ flange IHH2-0083 Oil Pan 18 5/16-18 X 5/8 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0121 Distributor 1 3/18-16 X 1 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0143 Timing Cover 1 5/16-18 X 2 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0131 4 5/16-18 X 1 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0124 3 5/16-18 X Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0122 Exhaust Manifold 16 3/8-16 X 1 Small Hex Head w/ large flange ARP2-0881 Valve Cover 8 -20 X 5/8 Hex Cap Screw HCS2-0102 :bglasses:
