1970 gs 455 stage 1

I'm looking at one that has:

-non original motor or trans. 455 non stage 1
-Vin is correct "GS 455"
-and built in Flint.
-Boxed trailing arms
-original 342 posi
-a/c
- column shift
- bench seat
- manual drums

other than paper work which seller doesn't have are there any other tricks that could help me determine if it's a true stage 1? Guy's super cool and knows Buicks but I just want to make sure. I don't think I'll have time to check with Sloan. Car will sell..... any helpo No:

 

Sorry but more or less everything that would help confirm a true Stage 1 without paperwork is removed.

More reading here:
http://www.stage1registry.com/stage1info.html

 

Thank you for the reply. That's what I thought. I thought there was something about the steering box also but I can't remember.

 

That's right. I knew if was of some significance but I couldn't remember. Thanks for the help.

 

...steering shafts are replaceable items....just noting to not base your decision on that alone. Are you suspicious of what you are seeing? GS could have the fast ratio box in it...

 

The rear doesn't prove its a stage car, but that would be the original ratio for an a/c equipped car.

 

To be diligent you have to be somewhat suspicious these days. Just seemed odd that the engine * trans are gone along with the original hood. Maybe it's just me?o No:

Vin is right for 70 GS 455 at a minimum.

 

It's a good thing to be suspicious when it comes to cars.:TU:
To me it sounds like you have a '70 GS 455 w/o original motor and trans, possibly with original rear end.
That's it. It should be priced accordingly.
BTW, The boxed lower control arms came in a package (F41) with rear stabilizer bar and frame braces and harder springs and shocks in front and rear.

 

I agree. Thanks again for your input. The car is pretty banged up but not rotten. Fenders,roof and rear quarters are all dented. Interior is shot, etc,etc. I was thinking 4g's since it's not running and not many options. Any insight into the price range?

 

Easier to give a price with pictures or a link to pictures.

 

If you want it why not get the sloan or roberts docs

 

You guys are the experts so I asked. I read that Roberts docs could take months. If I'm out of line zip me a pm and say so. I'm just trying to be careful and RESPECTFUL.

 

If it has original front fenders, you should open either or both doors, get a flashlight and look at the Stage 1 fender emblem mounting pins. Original Stage 1 cars had "wide pin" mounting pins, and the majority if not all NOS replacements were the "narrow pin" style. Research pics of the different styles and you can tell by looking at just the right angle, and sometimes feeling with your fingers (if you have thin hands and long fingers). It's not a way to officially document a car, but it may give you enough confidence if it has original fenders with wide pin emblems.

 

What is the build date ? If its a Sloan car sometimes they can fax the report that day or next .
WR yeah might take a bit even paying for expedited report.

DL

 

Just being a realist... If the seller wants "Stage 1 $" for the car the seller should have gotten the documentation already. Of course, the doesn't help you if someone else is willing to pay "Stage 1 $" without the evidence...

 

Roberts doc can be fast tracked for a fee. That said you probably would want to do more research like the wide pin emblems And how bad do you want it.

 

This may sound harsh, but I would only spend the time and money required and do the restoration IF it is a true Stage 1 and the original Stage 1 parts where present. As it is now, I would walk away.
My opinion is based on my experience from restoring a GS 455 convertible, and with that in mind I would say that you have minimal chance to recover the cost for the restoration of this car if/when you sell. No matter how nice you restore it, people are not willing to pay top dollar if the car is missing the matching drive train.

 

Christian, I agree with you on the financial aspect. But what people here seem to miss is that its not always about how much money will it be worth in the end. I've got a basket case 70 GS 455 car that will be done someday. It'll cost a fortune to do it and be worth less than my total investment when done. If I only look at the financial end of it, I would have parted the car out years ago. Then there would be one less numbers matching GS 455 in existence.

Skyylark350, if its truly rust free, I'd say it's worth $4k. At a minimum, you're getting a real big block GS with minimal rust, something I can't seem to find around here. Finding out later its a real Stage 1 would just be a bonus. They aren't very abundant and they ain't makin anymore.

 

Tim, I fully agree. Our hobby is much more than that.
The feeling you have knowing that you have saved a car that otherwise would have been scrapped/parted out is worth more than the money spent. You are aware of this and I am too, but sometimes people have other expectations.
I just wanted to point this out to SkyyLark350 so that he goes into this with his eyes open.

 

X3, I know I have WAY more money in my 71 GS 350 than its worth, but I like the car, and I love tinkering, Same with my 87 Grand National.
Yeah I could sell one or both, have some money FOR A SHORT WHILE, then back to where I am now money wise, AND NO HOBBY CARS
BOOOOOOOOOORING!!