1971 and up brake bleeding issue...

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by George D., Aug 14, 2021.

  1. George D.

    George D. Platinum Level Contributor

    Need advice please.

    Disc brake set up on the GS is from a 1971 GS, which means the combination/ proportioning valve is on the frame. The master is new, the vacuum booster is the original. The valve is the old 0411 Bendix (see below).

    [​IMG]

    The problem I am having is that the fronts have bled perfectly, with high pressure. However, there is not a DROP coming out of the rear wheel cylinders. There's fluid spraying out of the Bendix 0411 with the rear line removed. The rear intermediate line flows fine, the rubber diff line is new, both lines going to the wheel cylinders are new, and the wheel cylinders are new.
    So...
    1. Do I need to get the little tool that keeps the switch located in the proportioning valve in the middle?
    2. Is it possible that the master cylinder rod is too short?

    This is driving me mad. I have replaced the 0411 Bendix valve with 3 different ones and now am using an aftermarket one....
     
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Do you have pressure going into the rear flex line? Can you try bleeding it from there to see if you have fluid?
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  3. 69 GS 400

    69 GS 400 Well-Known Member

    The rear flex line that splits off to the 2 sides can collapse internally making it act like a check valve. Nothing shows on the outside of it. I found out the hard way , spent an entire long weekend messing with my brake system to come down to that conclusion. I could get fluid by bleeding but problem was it wouldn't return to release pressure on shoes.
     
  4. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    I would try gravity bleeding the rear brakes first?
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    What tool are you referring to?
     
  6. Daves69

    Daves69 Too many cars too work on

    George

    I took one of those apart years ago. It was gummed up and had some rust. Cleaned it and worked fine afterwords.
     
  7. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  9. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    That has to be a real pita with the combo valve mounted on the frame.
    Guess that's why I opted for the under master style mount.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I never heard of it but looks like a handy tool to have in the toolbox
     
  11. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    With the under master mount, you can unscrew the brake light switch and see right in there to see if piston is centered neutrally...very easily.
     
  12. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I liked your set up there easy to get to
     
  13. htrdbuick

    htrdbuick Gold Level Contributor

    This is gonna sound crazy but a few years ago I was replacing wheel cylinders on the rear of my wildcat. I always take the bleeder screws out to antisieze the bleeders and noticed that they did not have a hole drilled from beneath the bleeder screw into the fluid chamber between the pistons. I was lucky to catch this otherwise I don’t know how long I’d have been banging my head trying to bleed the rears.
     
    69 GS 400 likes this.
  14. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    So basically you had a zerk grease fitting for a bleeder.
     
  15. George D.

    George D. Platinum Level Contributor

    Well... even though I bench bled the master, I had air in it.... ughhhh. Once we blew out the line and drove the air out, amazingly, I have perfect brakes! This has been a PITA... On the brighter side, this car will be ready to cruise in the next week or so... More to follow! Thank you all!
     
    Daves69, Dano and Max Damage like this.

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