1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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1st and 2nd Gen Riv Disc Brake Swap

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Yardley, Feb 28, 2017.

  1. Yardley

    Yardley Club Jackass

    OK. Several years ago I bolted on an available aftermarket disc brake setup to my 1969 Riviera. At the time the maker/seller of the brackets claimed that it wasn't necessary to swap to the disc master cylinder, but I immediately had very poor braking. So I swapped in the disc master cylinder. It helped, but the brakes were still barely adequate. I plumbed in a 10 pound residual valve and a front hold0off valve and drove for several years. Braking was just barely adequate. Last winter out of frustration I checked the front brakes real good and noticed that the pads were wearing more on one end than the other, like the calipers weren't aligned. So I bought a replacement set of brackets. I noticed that the maker had redesigned the bracket from the first one I had bought years before. The redesign helped, but the braking was still barely adequate.

    The kit I had purchased used a one-piece caliper mounting bracket and late model calipers. In my opinion it is a mismatch to our master cylinder and who-knows-what-else.

    At the time I had the option to buy a set of brackets from a gent in Australia named Tony Gentilcore. I passed on them because there was a little bit of machining that had to be done to make the brackets fit the spindles and the rotors to fit as well. So This winter I started looking at Tony's setup again. He has since changed his setup to use standard Riviera rotors and 1
    '71 and later calipers. The machining needed to the spindles is strictly for clearancing purposes and is very minimal. I had a shop do the work but any capable mechanic can do it with a die grinder if they take their time. As you can see in the photos, Tony's bracket is a 2 piece bracket which fits infinitely better and keeps the caliper square to the rotor.

    I am here to report that Tony's setup is as good as any disc brake car I've driven from the muscle car era. I have a high pedal and the thing stops like a champ! Kudos to Tony. Here is his website: http://www.mako.com.au.

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