Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by partsrparts, May 17, 2021.
Cool, got a couple more years and I will be with you in that then I can do some extra to this motor that is in need of a surprise. Keep working on it. Take the bars off and let er rip!!
Forgot about something, have you ever checked out your pinion angle as this will let those tire spin if out of wack
Sounds like the trans is slipping if the rpm jumps during the 1 to 2 shift
Update. New Hughes trans. Last race of the year was this past sat. (dec. 4th).
1/8mi et 8.45 converted to 1/4 13.46
1/8 mph 81.47 1/4 101.02
sea level 12.94, 105.09
10to1 comp, stock crank and rods resized with polished crank and rotating assembly balanced
TA 212 roller with 1.65 roller rockers
TA SP3 with Holley 750 DP
TA 1 5/8 headers
Hughes performance TH 400
8.5 rear with 3.23 posi
255/60 15 MT drag radials
Calvert 90/10 front shocks, no sway bar
Pulls strong to shift point of 5500
you should be able to spin to 6200 easily. nice job! got a 1.87 60 ft put a 373 gear in there and be a street terror.
Good to hear some track times with the aluminum heads!
Keep 'er going
This winter's plan is 3.73 gears and the building of a new short block,(I have 2 spare 350 engines), that will handle 7,000rpm.
Single plane intake, aluminum heads, roller cam. Shifting at 5500 rpm? You're joking right? Unleash that baby and get 'er up above 6000 rpm. Also at higher elevations your effective power is down as can be seen by the DA. Forget a new shortblock. If you don't plan on going to sea level tracks regularly, I'd go with 4.56's. Even if you do just run taller tires at sea level.
Otherwise looking good!
I'm hearing that the stock 68 bolt and nut rod bolts won't handle anything over 6000rpm, that's why I went with the 212hr cam. On the gears, I don't know if I want to go that steep. I still want to be able to drive it for distances at 65-70 mph.
Yes I wouldn’t rev a stock rod engine over 6000 very many times personally it seems smart to keep the revs down till the good short block is built. I would keep the 3.73 gears unless adding an overdrive trans.
you didn't use the 73 up capscrew rods when rebuilding?
The 373 is about max if you do not have a 4 speed auto, I was running at about 3 grand with the 373 to stay at 65.
I would put in a 2004R trans and don't look back then you can go up to a 411 and it will scream with your light car.
you should have not put the goodies if you did not upgrade that bottom end. The SP and the alum heads Want you to go past 6 grand that is a given there especially with the SP3.
If you have the old school rods Yeah I would not go past 6 grand But has anyone you know blow up a 350 with 68 rods
It is usually crappy oiling system with no mods done and too big of clearances.
I mean really how many people have blown up a 350 Buick because of rod failure
First you got to get them past 6 grand Hey no guts No glory lol
I was watching a vid on You Tube, a trade school was running engines WOT, no water till they quit, they had a Buick V6 go go go go go, shooting flames out the manifolds. still going till it seized up, no rods came out.
Small block Chevy, go go pop, rods thru the side of the block, LOLOLOLOL
6000 rpm......chump change. 1st 30 over had hypers and stock rods. 7500 was no issue until i hit 10k and the wall.
again, if you build it right.........
Post the link......
Its the last two engines, the Buick V6 sounded good till the end
and you thought you could blow up a Buick it just seized up
If that translates to a 350 Engine what you all worried about lol
That's cool.......even with burnt ass wires the little B purred on..the sbc only ran aboutv2 mins.....but itbsounded bad from the word go
how much mechanical advance does your distributor allow? I'm using a proform with 22 degrees. I can only run about 14 degrees advance with my distributor for a total of 36. Would like to run a little more initial...Dont mean to hijack your thread, just curious about the TA distributor.
what's the rpm (SP1) drop between gears, anybody? i know with hi 4 gears, the drop is about 500 and right back to redline. whatever that is..
Should be around 32* mechanical without vacuum advance. Vacuum advance should add about 8*-12* for a total of 40*- 44*.