I finally installed my B&M lockup controller and when i activate it, the convertor locks up but as i cruise along it feels like its locking and unlocking rapidly which causes the car to buck and as I slow the bucking gets worse. I checked all the external wiring and everything seems to be fine. ANy ideas?
Is it programmable for your low engine vacuum? Can you program it just to lock up in 4th and use the brake switch only?
The controller is basically a potentiometer that you can turn on or off and dial in the speed at which it locks the convertor. Has no provisions for vaccum.
Check the solidness of the wiring connections, sounds like it could be a loose wire then. What is it using for a speed reference?
It's a mechanical tie in to the speedo cable. Here are the specifics: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-70244.pdf
Just run a toggle swith in line with the controller so you can disable the lockup manually when u don't want it.
What if he doesn't want to shackle himself to a toggle? Being an 'everything automated' person myself, I can sympathize with the dilemma, though I have no real problem solving responses to give to this subject other than perhaps do some research on it and find some wiring diagrams and such if you're somewhat handy with electrical issues.
He does not have to "shackle" himself to the toggle switch he just has to either leave it in "auto" mode which only allows lockup when the brakes are not being applied, and the vacuum levels are high enough to activate the switch. Then if he flips the toggle switch to off the lockup will never go on.... So this way he has auto lockup OR no lockup and no issues.... The TCI kit along with a brake switch that is "normally closed" and a lighted toggle switch that is "normally open", both in the ground circuit of the lockup will work great. If you go with the auto setup and no toggle switch then it is fine most of the time however large hills, full throttle, racing, etc may be reasons to not want the lockup functional at times... As stated above the lockup system is not meant to handle 500 HP shifts at 6500 RPM, they will burn out... I have a $950 converter in my 4L80E trans and even though the trans and converter are designed (aftermarket) to handle 1000 HP they told me not to engage the lockup when the engine is making over 600 HP. So I will not use it when drag racing, just on the highway cruising. There is a diagram in the TCI kit and also some diagrams of stock wiring in this thread: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?251703-200-4R-wiring&highlight=lockup
No problem, its all good.... We must learn each day!!!! :TU: ps.... You would hate my paddle shifted 4L80E, so much work rowing through the 4 gears with the touch of a finger.... No auto shift only paddle switches, and to select park, N, forward or reverse I still need to use the column shifter.... I know a lot of work. I also have to turn the fuel pump on turn the key, saw at the wheel to keep it straight, and load the parachute back in after each pass.... I know it is a lot of work to drive this street/strip car....
I looked at this one but wasn't sure if it would work for me. Instead, my trans guy installed the ATI that works off of vacuum. If you set that one too high, it will cycle in and out as soon as it shifts into 4th. Set it too low and it drops into lockup as soon as it hits 4th. It took some doing but I finally got it where it will hit 4th and lockup but will drop out with moderate throttle like a passing gear. I am tempted to install an adjustable delay module so that I can delay lock up in 4th by a few seconds to give it time to gain more speed before it hits.
