Long story short, I have a brand new 2004R (local shop built, we put A LOT of high-dollar parts in it, $3000 in parts) and they can't get it to shift right. It is behind a 400hp 350. it shifts 1-2 at 2500, 2-3 at 3500 and 3-4 at 3400, regardless of what the TV cable is doing. The TV cable makes no difference in pressure tests. I have TCI break-away 2500 stall convertor, trans-go reprogrammer kit, red-oxide clutches, billet super servo, Z-pak, TCI lock-up kit, all the good stuff. I am sick of dealing with this shop, so I took my car back yesterday after they have had it for 3 months and twisted my driveshaft and smashed a fender (seriously, and they won't claim responsibility!). I was going to yank it and put in a stick, but since I have so much invested in this one, and I like the shift firmness and OD, I thought of a manual VB. TCI makes one for $300, it is a reverse pattern, I could keep my stock console and reverse the shift detent and have a reverse pattern on the stock shifter. What do you guys think about this? I finally got to drive the car for the first time in 3 years with it actually working (last time it wouldn't shift at all) and it is an absolute riot. My buddy followed me home in his 400-hp TA and couldn't keep up when I was sliding in second (the 1-2 shift is vicious). Is a manual VB a mistake for a street car?
I think that the shop didn't install the reprogramer right. Can you take it to another shop for second opinion? In my exerience the second shop likes my repeat, and word of mouth, buisness.
You're the one that has to shift it. If you don't mind, it's not a mistake. I had similar issues with my first 2004r. I was able to get it a lot better by modifiying the governor. This can be done with the trans in the car and the pan off. This site has loads of info on the 2004r. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/transpage.html I was not 100% happy with the shift points in "D" and if I had not bought another trans from CK Perf. I would have changed to a BRF valve body. Obviously the shop you've been dealing with doesn't know what they're doing. If you don't feel comfortable modifying your trans and since you have so much invested it might pay to take it to someone that really knows how to modify a 2004r. I don't know where you live but CK is on LINY and ART CARR is on the west coast and people have been saying good things about a guy in OHIO.
What all will I need to change when I swap out the VB? I am thoroughly versed in hot rodding, but I usually leave the tranny stuff to the tranny shops, I will probably start building them myself at this point. What about all the check balls and stuff? will the new manual VB eliminate those?
Also, What about engine compression breaking? The unit I am looking at says it has no compression breaking, I understand what engine breaking is, but what does it mean to have no engine compression breaking? does that mean that letting off the gas in gear will effectively be like clutching? I have no problem shifting all the time, my truck is a stick, I have to shift it. I am just new to manual VB in an auto and want to get some advice.
If you are considering "doing it yourself" I'd like to recommend getting the 200 4r book from CK performance. www.ckperformance.com http://www.ckperformance.com/resources/GM2004RTECHNICALMANUAL.html Also might pick up an atra 200 4r manual. Your problem might stem from the vavlebody governor combo. It sounds like they used one for a diesel. What is the code on the tailshaft tag? Many claim to be able to build a stout 200 4r but few are actually able.
The trans is stout, holds gear under some serious torque, it isn't slipping. the problem is that the shifts are not right. The trans is running full pressure- a little over 200 psi at part throttle, the TV cable is doing nothing. It is probably something simple, but I have decided the best course of action is to switch to a manual VB. I don't drive it everyday, I was going to to convert to a stick anyways. This way I will have OD and everything is already beefed up.
Yeah I vote go for the manual valve body for sure! I'll be using a 4L80E with a manual valve body in my 76.
