1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

425 Head Bolt Removal / Coolant escaping

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by rusty_bucket, Apr 26, 2014.

Tags:
  1. rusty_bucket

    rusty_bucket New Member

    Hi all, first post here. I have a 1965 Riviera GS with a 425 dual quad motor. It's a non AC car and the alternator is held on by a steel bracket on top that bolts to the block and an aluminum bracket on bottom that bolts to the head. I am working on cleaning up the engine bay and removed the alternator and brackets. When I took the rear bolt off the aluminum bracket, about 1 second of oil came out, followed by coolant. I notice the bolt has gasket sealant around the top of the threads. So obviously I've removed a head bolt here, and not an accessory bolt which is what I thought it was. My question is....now what do I do? Does this mean I have a cracked head? Leaking head gasket? Here are images of the before and after:

    photo-1-(12).jpg
    photo.jpg
     
    rusty_bucket, Apr 26, 2014
    #1
  2. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    You're okay.... there are three head bolts that go into water passages, you found one of them.
    There are three rows of head bolts (bottom, middle, top). On the middle row, the three bolts in the center lead to water.
    Also, those two bolts that hold the alt bracket on are longer than the other 'middle row' bolts. Don't ever get those mixed up!

    And welcome to V8 Buick!:beer
     
    wkillgs, Apr 26, 2014
    #2
  3. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    Welcome to V8Buick !!:bglasses:
     
    bhambulldog, Apr 26, 2014
    #3
  4. rusty_bucket

    rusty_bucket New Member


    Woo hoo! Ok, thank you very much. Is it ok to just put that bolt back in, fill up the coolant and go? Anything else I need to do or not do when re-assembling tomorrow?
    Thanks again.

    Also, what about the oil that came out before the water? Couldn't have been more than a couple ounces....maybe enough to fill up one of those little 5-hour energy bottles. Maybe it was just crud that was built up in the bolt hole

    Rusty_Bucket
     
    rusty_bucket, Apr 26, 2014
    #4
  5. GS Jim

    GS Jim Platinum Level Contributor

    What You need to do to stop the leaking is to send me your Dual Quad Set-up and air cleaner. That'll stop the leak. :laugh: :spank:

    Also Welcome to the Board. And beware of People like ME.

    PONCH
     
    GS Jim, Apr 27, 2014
    #5
  6. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    You need to clean the head bolt and put a little RTV sealer on the threads and retorque it. A good practice with Nailheads if you remove headbolts is to put them in order. I punch holes in a piece of cardboard and keep them in the holes. AC engines use a longer bolt through the bottom bracket. There are several places in a Nailhead where bolts strike water.
     
    John Codman, Apr 27, 2014
    #6
  7. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    I like the teflon thread sealer (in a tube, not tape) as a bolt sealer. RTV will work too, just don't apply too much.
    I'd guess the oil simply seeped into the bolt hole over the years.
     
    wkillgs, Apr 27, 2014
    #7

Share This Page