This winter I am building another motor for bracket racing, and I am looking for info on building a 496". What I am looking for is what it takes to build one ie rod piston comb and such. Also looking for pros and cons on this combination. This build will be done in steps as the money thing comes to play. Thanks Rick
Rick, I bought the "494" stroker kit from TA . I also used a block girdle and lifter bore girdle from TA . Machine work for the girdle in big $$$'s but worth the extra strenght. This is a great setup for alum heads, intake and big cam. Lots of torque with the extra cu in ! I love my "494" but would build less cu in next time because of cost. Good Luck
Bill thanks for the info. This motor should not need to turn more than 5500-6000rpm the car is fairly light, and runs 1/8 mile. Just looking at all the avenues. Thanks Rick
I have a 494 kit also, but opted for a 464 Stg2 SE motor first. I'll get around to the 494 someday since it's paid for, but for now I want something borderline street friendly. The 494 kit would be at least 12.5:1. I truely believe that you're better off saving the money and putting in a really good set of heads and intake.
If it's a track only car, fairly light and only doing the 1/8th mile, do you need those extra 30 cubic inches to have a strong engine. I could understand if you had a heavy car that was on the street a lot and wanting the extra torque, but it seems like that's a lot of $$$$ to be spending on that stroker kit for not much gain, IMOO.
Hey Rick Here you go my Stroker 500 cuin BBB!! I drive her on the street, to work, any where!! Just fun and very fast!!! :TU: Girdles are expensive and the components take time to acquire but when you drive it you will say its all worth it. Best time right now 11.90 and shes got a overdrive!!! Enjoy. :TU:
My engine has its horsepower peak at 6250 and I am going thru the 1/4 at 6600-6700 so i need to change tire size or rear. tThe converter is just right !
Reynold, 4.10's with 29.5x 12.5 x 15 hooser(spelling?) Qwit time streets on 8" wide draglites. I've got to notch the frame rails to get the 15 x10's under the fenders with the 31.5x12.5(or 13.5's)x 15's. Last time out at Cecil county dragway it ran 9.95, 9.96 ,9.97 so this means that I need to do license runs in the spring. FUN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The car weighs around 2700#. I want to be able to run 10's. It will run mainly 1/8 mile with the occasional 1/4. I want some reliabilty thats the reason for the lower rpms. Thats the reason for the larger displacement. Can it be done with a 455 thats not all radical? What parts are needed to do that? Thanks Rick
In a 2700 # car I don't believe it would take too much to get in the tens. I would toss the girdle and put the money towards heads. I had a high compression 462 I used to run and I've gone faster with the bigger inch pump gas motor thats in the car now. Your car is pretty light and with a decent set of heads matched with a good cam you should haave no problem.
Man, my car run's 11.86 and it's a bit over 4,000 lbs. A 1,300 lb. difference would easily get me into the 10's. I don't think you need a mountain motor to achieve your goals. My engine has iron heads, a fairly mild cam so I can have power brakes. Nothing fancy at all. 3.73 rear gear and a 28" tall tire with automatic. T/A and others have told me that a good set of aluminum Stage 1 heads would knock another .3 or so off my times. So just build a 464 and put some T/A or Edelbrock heads on it that have had the port and bowl cleanup. Then you can run 11.0 compression on good pump gas, a mild sold lifter cam along with headers and a good 950 or 1000 HP carb and a fuel system to keep up with it. I'll eat your shorts if that doesn't put your car in the ten's.
Rick, Check out the 470 option. My current street car is a 470 and I'm building another for my race car engine. My street car uses 430 heads, stock crank offset ground .050", nitrited, and using 6.800" BBC rods, (Scat "H" beam). I used Diamond custom pistons this time, but have mainly used JE's in the past. I run a very mild TA cam also. My street engine has no girdle and is fairly mild. It still runs 11.70's @ 4000#'s with enough vacuum for the brakes. It's a real pleasure on the street because the motor seems to rev very fast and is super responsive with the 950 HP carb from Bigs Performance. The race car version of the 470 will use a girdle and most likely aluminum rods, (yet to be determined). It will also have Stage 2 SE's that will be extensively ported. I'm building this engine with the thought of "low maintenance" and "reliability" in mind. I know this is a Buick block and "reliability" is a relative term, but my goal is to keep the rpm's down and still be in the 700-725 HP range. Mike Phillips is doing this engine for me, and It's the first time anyone but "me" has built anything for my vehicles. It's hard to give up the responsibility, but I trust Mike and the guys at AM&P. Anyway, consider the 470. There are more guys running this combo than you may think! Steve
I'm in the same boat. I've been putting together engines for over 20 years, but the next one (in the planning phase right now) may need some professional help.
Maybe a good question to ask is how much does it cost to build a good 494 these days? For instance, mine has the long TA rods, JE custom pistons, custom ground factory crank, and girdle.
Phil what are specs and cat #s on your motor. A 464 must be .038 over hole, is your block zero decked. This will be a iron headed motor. Steve how to you come up with a 470? What parts are in your motor? I guess what I am looking for now are part #s to make these combinations. All this info is fantastic. At this time money out weighs the extic cu in. Thanks Rick
Hi, engine is a .030 455 (462) that has been almost zero-decked (.003 in the hole). TRW aluminum pistons on stock rods and crank, .020 turned. Heads are 1967 430 heads with porting and stage 1 valves. Compression is a true 10.13 to 1. Cam is a Poston 113A piece, .491/.510 lift, 232/236 duration I think. Intake is a port-matched SP1. Carb is a Holley 950HP from Quickfuel Technologies. The rest of the fuel system is bone stock. Ignition, believe it or not, is stock with points, but a MSD 6 box and aftermarket coil. headers down to a 2.5" exhaust with x-pipe.
Rick, Bore is .038 over, = 4.350 Stroke is .050, = 3.950 (.050" stroke and BB Chevy 6.800" rods, and custom pin location on the pistons) If you do the math with basic head gasket thickness and cylinder volume you come up with approximately 469.5 CI. I think this started out at one point, as a way to use less expensive rods, ( big block Chevy), but by the time you add up the custom crank grinding, etc, it's really not that much cheaper than anything else. It is a good reliable combo though, that revs quick and pulls very strong! I suggest that you talk to a REAL EXPERT in this field and make a call to Mike @ AM&P, or Jim @ TSP, or Mike @ TA, etc, etc. Get a feel for what each of them tells you and weigh all of your options. Set a realistic goal before you begin, or you won't know where to stop! Been there, done that!! LOL Good luck!! Steve
I have been 10.31 @ 129 in a 3400# car with an iron headed 464 with a hydraulic K-B cam and a 1969 Offy intake that people say don't work. Get some weight out and set it up to get some traction and the 10s are easy. Jim N.
