1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

62 LeSabre drives in L and R, but will not move in D

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by Chad Nicoletti, Jun 1, 2020.

  1. Chad Nicoletti

    Chad Nicoletti Well-Known Member

    Good afternoon All,

    First off, I know these trannies are single speeds. I am familiar with how they work, but am completely stumped by what my new to me car is doing. I bought her 5/23, and have replaced plugs, wires, coil, fuel pump, changed oil, verified the trans is full of fluid. We tuned the carb last night and dialed in the timing. She is running amazingly well! When you move the shift lever from P past N to D, nothing happens. It will not roll backwards, but when given throttle, does nothing but raise the rpms. I will move very well in L, and I have had it up to 35 in L, as I am very hesitant to push it over that speed in fear of damaging the clutches.

    With that said, has anyone ever heard of a Dynaflow not driving in D, but will drive in L and R? If you have heard of this, what could be the culprit? I am trying to avoid dropping the trans if at all possible.

    Thanks guys!
     

    Attached Files:

    Chad Nicoletti, Jun 1, 2020
    #1
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    LARRY70GS, Jun 1, 2020
    #2
  3. d2_willys

    d2_willys Well-Known Member

    Two things come to my mind. 1) The high accumulator is not operating correctly. 2) The direct drive clutch pak is defective, whether the disks are worn, or the annular piston seal is shot. Since you have L and R, the first thing I would check is to see if you have pressure at the high accumulator. (Each accumulator should have a port for a gauge to be installed at). If you have pressure when in D, then it sounds like the clutch pak is bad. That will require pulling the transmission and rebuilding.
     
    d2_willys, Sep 16, 2020
    #3

Share This Page