FWIW looks like we are all working on different years of 64 65 66 67 body. Maybe minor differences from factory or the PAE mounts..
Engine-to-brake booster clearance will vary depending on how rotted the frame-to-body bushings are. The more those bushings collapse, the less clearance you'll have. I'd have to go out and look to see if radiator shroud clearance is dependent on the radiator support bushings. I dicked with all that way over a decade ago.
I Am pretty sure. I only trimmed 1" maybe 1 1/4" Max, but it was not too much. I chose the fan spacer to have the fan only partially inside the shroud. I run an 18" fan. It is pretty close on the top side. It has only about 5/16" to 1/4" clearance from 10:00 to about 2:00 position looking at it from drivers seat. Here are a few more pictures. I hope that helps some. Greg
Now, question I have about radiators...what aluminum radiators is everyone using? Are the DeWitts good? Part numbers would be nice. Thanks. avmechanic, your upper radiator support plate looks different. What year is that from and whose radiator are you using? Here is my post from a different thread on how I modified my shroud back in 2017. *********** OK. Here is my modified 300 fan shroud that is now installed with my 455. I trimmed 1 1/4" from radiator side and 3/4" from the round fan side. The stock 300 shroud is 5" deep and my modified shroud is now 3" deep. Now, here is the trick. The fan offset on the 300 fan is the wrong way. I flipped the shroud upside down, cut the slot for the core support tab on the lower drivers side, the angled tapered corner on passenger side fits between the lower core support tab and radiator and I fabricated a tab to bolt the upper center of the shroud to the upper radiator support plate. I think it turned out rather well, and if I didn't just tell everyone it's a modified 300 shroud, you probably wouldn't know it. Thanks to Walt(wkillgs) for mentioning trimming the 300 shroud and flipping it. If it wasn't for him, I probably wouldn't have attempted it. **************
Im running the Griffin 1-55242-xs Master cool. no mods to get it to fit. Im also using the stock radiator hoses and fan shroud un changed. You can request griffin to make an aluminum shroud at the time of purchase. I have now swapped over to full electric fans.
Hi Jim. I am using a upper radiator support plate from a Chevy that I had kicking around. I was considering doing exactly like you did and was preparing for it when I stumbled across the chevy one in my junk. It is a pretty common one. I think it is off a Nova. They are available reproduction cheap too. I had a quick look and here is a chrome one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...zhAuHQZBGWOOHuTpae1x17lBClzO_HJxoC6-0QAvD_BwE I am sure there are plenty of others. I am not much of a chrome fan. Now for the radiator. I am running a Northern radiator Aluminum one. https://www.northernradiator.com/AUTOMOTIVE_-_LIGHT_TRUCK/BUICK/SKYLARK/1966/205028 I am glad some others have figured out how to reuse the original shroud. I had a fibreglass reproduction of a 67' GS400 one and the quality was Shite with poor fitment. I decided not to use it anymore and went with the small block one modified. Greg
I didn't mention it here, but I have in other posts in the past, but I am running a Modine 347 4 row radiator, which is the factory replacement for the 67 GS400. I am debating going to an aluminum 2 row.
That's interesting about the upper radiator support plate. That makes it easier to find one, rather than trying to get one from a rare 67 GS400, or a 300/340 with a/c and heavy duty cooling with 3 row radiator. Mine originally was a 2 row.
If you were to replace your radiator, would you get another Northern? And did you have to do any modifications to get it to fit?
Being in Canada there were not many economical options for Aluminum radiators up here especially during the Covid-19 summer last summer. The extra tank width made it so nothing fit. The tanks are too wide for the rubber saddles. I used Dorman saddles on the bottom like these. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-926-276-Radiator-Mount-Bushing/dp/B01CS3JLI8 I just found the location then drilled a hole for the rubber nub to pull through and hold in place. I then used that Chevy Nova top piece. The tank width with the extra core width is another reason why I used the Nova top. If you are in the States you might find a better fitting radiator option. Greg
So you didn't have the stock factory wide saddles for the heavy duty cooling 3 row radiator? I'm assuming that you had the 2 row radiator originally? How wide is the Northern radiator tank where it sits in the saddles? I've got the wide factory lower saddles and the wide width upper core support. Apologize to the OP for a slight thread hijack. But I think some good info is being shared here.
I had a factory 3 core rad. This Northern Rad is the same width as a 4 core. I don't have any dimensions and I just left for work away for a couple weeks so I can't check. Greg
Actually mine was a 2 core radiator originally. A 300 v8, non AC, non PB or PS car originally from Denver. I found someone on here that had the wide lower saddles and upper support plate for sale that I bought. So I'm going to assume that the Northern alum rad should fit, because my 4 row copper/brass fits. But doing what you did is great info, because of the scarcity of factory parts. Thanks Greg for answering my questions.
I have no complaints of the quality of the Northern radiator. It just was not a bolt in thing. I don't really expect much to be perfect bolt in on a car like mine anyway. Once you start modifying stuff almost everything you do has some residual consequences that also need modification. It is part of the classic car hobby. I am a mechanic by trade so I take it in stride. One of my long time friend is into classic cars too but much less mechanically inclined. I often give him tech advice. He has been doing more and more work on his own and used to get frustrated when he had to deal with a snowball of changes every time he tried to do modifications. I have finally got him to chill out a little and just deal with it. Make it fun to be out tinkering in the shop instead of sitting in the house. I am glad he is starting to embrace it a little. Hopefully some info I shared will help some others. I am always happy to share and answer questions as many have helped me over the years. Greg
So, on your radiator, there's supposed to be a hookup for a heater hose on it. Was it a nipple or was it threaded for a pipe thread? I just ordered one yesterday. Picture on Northern's website looks like it's a hose nipple.
I have posted a picture for you but it is not easy to see. It has a 3/4" nipple to go to a heater hose on the passenger side top. It comes with a rubber cap clamped on it if you do not need to use it. Greg
I used the original mounts, frame pads, and factory oil pan, just clears the brake booster and works great. Thanks Brent
