1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

69 GS400 Runs Godawful Hot

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 2manybuicks, Sep 15, 2003.

  1. 2manybuicks

    2manybuicks Founders Club Member

    The Car:
    69GS400 4-speed ragtop, bone stock.

    Engine compartment:
    AC, PS, PB, fan clutch, 3-core radiator, seven blade fan. All components fairly new, including the thermostat, ac compressor, fan clutch, hoses.

    Location:
    Sunny, scorching hot south florida. No, not 100 degrees, but generally around 90 degrees with 400% humidity.

    Problem:
    No way in hell this car even thinks about running at less than 200 degrees. Wouldn't even consider going 80mph in the daytime, cause the damn thing would break 220 on its way to 235. I know -- I tried it.
    And no, it aint losing water.

    Question:
    What gives? What temp should I run at at sixty or seventy on the highway? Do these cars have naturally deficient cooling systems? I hate to go non-stock, but do I just shitcan the fan clutch and go to a direct-drive flex fan?

    Or do I just sell it to one of you generous sorts in the frozen north who are willing to take a problem car off my hands?:grin:

    -- Steve
     
  2. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Top 12, in no special order, except for # 1 & 2.

    1. Have you verified the temperature with a second temp gauge?

    2. Can you hear the fan clutch engage when you warm up the car at fast idle in your driveway? At some point, the fan will stop blowing "a fair amount" of air, and start REALLY BLOWING A HURRICANE, AND MAKING A LOUD ROARING NOISE AT THE SAME TIME. If you don't hear and feel the hurricane, the fan clutch is NOT working properly. You'll go from "yeah, yeah, yeah, there's plenty of air movin' under here, everything's fine, to HOLY CRAP! WHERE DID THE TORNADO COME FROM!. It'll be sudden and dramatic, once the engine warms up enough.


    3. bugs, birds, squirrels, clogging the air passages in the condenser, which also clogs the air flow thru the radiator.

    4. Missing fan shroud

    5. Clogged water passages in the rad. If you pop the rad cap and there's whitish stalactites forming on the water tubes, you need the rad cleaned or replaced.

    6. Timing retarded You better have something like 35 degrees at 3000 rpm, WITHOUT the vacuum advance. Then verify that the vacuum advance works.

    7. Lean fuel mix

    8. Overcharged A/C causing too much high side pressure. High pressure equals high temperature, and you're pre-heating the air before it goes to the engine radiator.

    9. Collapsed lower rad hose. You need a lower hose with a spring/wire reinforcement to prevent water pump suction from collapsing the hose. Generally more of a problem at higher RPM.

    10. Missing/defective thermostat

    11. Rust clogged waterjackets in engine.

    12. Defective water pump. Sheetmetal impeller rusted out, or impeller loose on the shaft.



    DO NOT think you'll move more air with a flex fan.

    DO NOT think you can remove the thermostat and get improved cooling

    DO NOT think some magic can full of chemical will solve all your heating problem.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    You need a 4 core brass/copper or 2 core aluminum radiator. Also in Florida, I would run 100% distilled water, with a bottle of Red Line water wetter. The more A/F you run, the warmer the temps will be. Also a 160 thermostat .
     
  4. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    Underdrive pullies (large water pump or small damper) can also cause a cooling problem, most commonly seen at idle or in traffic.
     
  5. John Eberly

    John Eberly Well-Known Member



    Wellllllll, now that you mention it, I was thinking that it might be the right thing for me to do to rescue you from your troubles....

    My '68 would look good next to a droptop...
     

Share This Page