Hi All not really sure where to put this question but thought here might be a good start. Mods if there's a better place please move this thread accordingly. I'm rebuilding the drive shaft on my 69 Riv and can't seem to find anyone who still sells the double cardan cv joint ball seal rebuild kits?? Only prt# that I found was Neapco 2-9303 and apparently they're discontinued. I know I can get the U joints and center support bearing pretty easily from Rockauto and the like. I know you can get the proper center support bearing rubber isolator from CARS only, the few others are apparently not the correct ones? If someone knows any info, prt#'s or places that carry them please let me know. Cheers!
Ok thanks Jason I'll let you know if I need it or not once I get the shaft out. It's amazing that all the U joints (with the plastic injected) and what not are original factory stuff and it's lasted this long.
I don't know how much different is 69 from 66, but ebay and cars they still have rebuild sets for balls. As for support, cars has junk, support on my Riv didn't last 1000 miles, bearing was to narrow and i had to machine some spacers. Not worth the money spent. Like with most of their stuff. Also while you're at it, check if the rear shaft didn't turn inside. On mine all looked fine until after disassembly i layed it flat and the other end didn't. They turned 4,7 degree. Peace, Kacper.
Any time I've looked up these parts they've spec'd 67-70 for the Rivs so maybe early 60's-65 was one style and they switched it 67?? Thanks for the tip on checking if the shaft twisted inside, if it did I'll probably have to have it rephased and balanced again then??
You can't rephase it. It can only be cut out ane welded one stiff pipe instead, no more damper inside. My friend did it on his 69 amd he is happy. I am in the same boat right now. I also know that regular u-joints doesn't work in CVjoints. They need recess for where sprint seat goes, and all they are selling has hump for zerk fitting. I have found Spicer ones without grease fitting and with recess in the middle. They are 1340 style. Hope this help a bit. Peace, Kacper. Btw i freakin love Evapo Rust.
My shaft is different from yours/ one pictured. I have two cardan joints. All the places I've looked for U joints it shows what joint they're compatible for so I think I'm good there. If the shaft has spun I'll have to have a drive shaft shop make a new section for me like your friend did. I'm being optimistic and thinking it's fine as there's no vibrations or anything just a bad 53 year old u joint lol. I'm still trying to track down the cv joint ball seal kits.
I had the rear section replaced with a 2.5" solid tube. Thinking I might have a spare shaft that was cut up for parts and the CV joints were still intact.
Briz did you replace the back half of the shaft because it spun or because you got a kickazz motor and you race the car and needed the extra strength? By doing that does it eliminate the two double cardan joints?"
I did it more of insurance. The car has always had a slight drive line vibration and this was one thing to cross off the list as a cause. Its still there! Yes all the factory joints are in place and functioning
When you had the shaft rebuilt did you replace the cv ball seals in the cardan joints or just grease them? I can't seem to find any place that still carries them, most places I did find that use to carry them they're now discontinued.
UPDATE: I got a center support bearing with the rubber isolator off ebay for $57US + shipping ($79US), not too bad actually. Same part (OEM7807531) as CARS has ($92+shipping) but for less money. Also I finally found a place that carries the correct double cardan CV ball seat repair kits prt# Neapco 2-9303 for $54US each+shipping ($137.79US) so I ordered two of those. They come from Kelly supply company (Kscdirect.com) in Grand Island, NE. Now to order the U joints, probably from rock auto. Question is which ones to get, greaseable, non greaseable, HD, Moog, Spicer/Dana, AC Delco, SKF??? Any opinions here on which ones are a good choice?
Well my order from KS direct was cancelled due to the parts being discontinued yet they still have them for sale on their site?? Well it looks like I'll just have to grease the ones I got, hopefully they're still good? I was looking at the non greaseable U joints, I think I'll go with those.
Go with the Spicer non greaseable type HD as mentioned they are stronger & have the relief needed. Tom T.
Ahh a bit late to the party Tom, I ended up buying 5 ACDelco prt# 45U0136 joints from Rockauto. They're the HD non greaseable ones though.
