1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

72 Skylark Steering Shaft Upper Coupling Question

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Dan Gerber, May 15, 2022.

  1. Dan Gerber

    Dan Gerber Founders Club Member

    Hey guys...

    What is the function of the cup-shaped coupling at the upper end of the steering shaft in the photos? Is it designed to absorb some of the shock of a front-end collision (to protect the driver?), or is it simply intended to absorb the flex of the chassis during driving or while jacking it up, etc.

    While I had it laying on my work bench I was able to slide it in and out a little ways, and it flexed side to side a little.

    I'm interested because I have about a 1,000,000-inch clearance between that coupling and my TA shorty header pipe... And the last thing I want to do is remove and "massage" the already Jet-Hot coated header. In fact, I'm looking into having a custom steering shaft made if the coupling will be compromised by the heat.


    The coupling doesn't contact the header but I'm concerned that the heat may damage the coupling.

    Any information regarding the coupling will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.



    Steering Shaft.jpg Steering Shaft Upper End.jpg
     
  2. Dan Gerber

    Dan Gerber Founders Club Member

    Really???? Nobody knows anything about that coupling??? Nobody has a friend who does know about it????

    I sure could use some information about it. So please...
     
  3. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Dan, I think to absorb the flex of the chassis. It has grease in it, too. I would be concerned if it were close to heat. The upper column can be moved a bit, maybe try moving it for more clearance?
     
  4. Buicksky

    Buicksky Platinum Level Contributor

    Dan as Frank mentioned the bell section has grease in it, it does move and flex with the chassis. The C clip with the nut and bolt locks it in on the column shaft. The shaft has some nylon pins that I believe will allow collapsing in the event of a crash. I hope that helps a little.
     
    mrolds69 likes this.
  5. Dan Gerber

    Dan Gerber Founders Club Member

    Thank you, gentlemen. I learned something today. That's a good thing.

    (BTW: Clever avatar, mrolds69)
     
    mrolds69 likes this.
  6. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    Mine was 3/8" from my headers for four years without causing any damage. It probably is too close though. I have now changed to electric steering with a universal joint replacing that coupling. It's now about 1 1/4" from the headers and I feel better. I actually lengthened the column shaft and shortened the intermediate shaft for more clearance.
     
  7. Dan Gerber

    Dan Gerber Founders Club Member

    Thanks again, you guys.
    1 - I plan on seeing if I can move the steering column over although I doubt that I'll be able to gain enough to do any good.
    2 - Even if I can move it over, I'll probably remove the grease from the upper coupling of the intermediate steering shaft, flush it out with solvent and repack it with the highest operating-temperature grease I can find. (I want to make sure that the hot grease will not drip down on my freshly Jet-Hot coated header tube).
    3 - I'm also going to look into replacing the steering shaft with an aftermarket (Flaming River, etc) intermediate shaft and one of their upper couplings (which, if I remember correctly, are smaller in diameter).
    4 - Last resort: Remove the left header, cut out the offending segment of the header, do what has to be done to replace it with a"custom" segment that provides adequate clearance, then send the header back to Jet-Hot to have it re-coated.

    Oh well...
     
  8. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Call Borgeson they have what you need to replace the whole shafts woth u joints it will drive and feel ALOT better with the more positive response
     

Share This Page