73 Century/455 swap problems

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by speed70, Sep 20, 2005.

  1. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    Aarrghh! The engine won't sit down on the frame pads and the R/S header is going to hit on the fuel lines! I don't want to keep rubber malletting the lines into the bend in the frame because they're starting to kink. It's becoming very frustrating. The frame pads are from a 71 Centurion and the engine mounts are new, from T/A (made in KOREA) I don't believe there was a difference in the Centurions O.E. frame pads compared to the POSTON cast mounts that I sold off. They seemed identical as far as heigth goes and they bolted right to the frames originally drilled BBB holes. So what gives?? When I get the right side bolt into the frame pad the left mount is still about an inch and a half off above the bolt hole. I've tried to "twist" the engine in the other direction but then the right is up and off the pad. Could it be that the mount rubber is too stiff and not compressing enough for the holes to line up? Its not my nature to give up so ideas are appreciated...Thanks. Tim
     
  2. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

    motor mounts

    sounds like the fun i had last weekend, i also have a 73 century which had a 350 in it. i got the frame mounts froma 73 electra which should be the same as a 73 gs with a big block. then i bought new motor mounts from autozone,13.00 each , they look just like the old motor mounts i took off a 70 electra.wanted to just use new ones. bolted them on dropped motor in and couldnt get motor down far enough to get bolts started. was really pissed.i was even jumping on top of intake, didnt work. next day i took old motor mounts from the 70 electra,got drivers side started then i beat passenger side down alittle and i got that bolt started.its in.only thing that is wrong is motor tilts to passenger side about 1/4 inch.i will fix that later.lossen frame mounts and i beat the passenger side up, or ill slot the holes in the frame mount and level motor later. i have no idea how you will use new motor mounts, everyone sells the same mounts for that motor.maybe slot the holes in the frame mounts bolt them to the motor mounts then drop it in and just get it level. hope that helps yah. RAY
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    Zoloft Withdraw
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2011
  3. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    still try'n

    Yeah I tried "hammering" the mount down onto the frame pad while the engine weight was on them, but it just wouldn't go. I just pitched out four pairs of old, squished down, but probably still usable mounts about a month ago. :Dou: My engine was sitting crooked as well while trying to set it in. I,ve pulled it back out and put it back on the stand. I loosened the mounts, pushed them up and retightened. Did the same to the frame pads and I guess then try it all again. I'm really considering putting on the exhaust manifolds and offing the headers. Once my A/C is back on the right side will be a real pain to keep retorquing.
     
  4. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    I believe the electra (and all big car) frame pads have a locating pin/nub that interfers with the A-Body motor mount

    Kevin (Wolverine) had the same problem last year in Salem where we swapped out his dead 350 for a 455 at the track.
     
  5. Iceman8.6

    Iceman8.6 Well-Known Member

    What type of headers are you using? The BBB frame mounts from a 71 Centurion should work fine on a 73 Centurion. Are you sure you have the motor mounts bolted in the right place on the engine block? There are 2 different places to put them.
     
  6. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

    he is putting frame mounts on a 73 century not centurion,the frame mounts go all the way to top of frame and all the way forward.as far as bolting on the motor mounts to motor you use 2nd and 4th hole to bolt them on.also you are correct as far as little nubs were on the old 455 mounts like the 69 70 and 71 motors,just grind them down.motor mounts will still work.problem is when you buy new motor mounts from ta or poston or autozone, they are all the same motor mounts, what happens is motor wont go down far enough, its like the rubber in the mounts is too high.i guess the next step is to make sure the frame mounts are correct. we need someone to look up frame mounts for a 73 gs with a 455 and a 73 buick electra witha 455 and see if the part number is the same for the frame mounts.hope someone can tell us that. thanks Ray ps - im talking about part numbers from back then not from aftermarket stuff.
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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2011
  7. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    Ray, I think we're on to something with the rubber on the motor mounts being "too high" as you put it. I know my frame pads are in the correct mounting holes and location. Up and forward of the 350s. They matched directly to the O.E. BBB drilled holes. There are no "nubs" to grind off though. I did some "center to center" measuring on the frame pads and then on two engines. On a 455 with some old mounts they were "squished" in and pushed up a bit from 29 years of a heavy 455/TH400 in an Electra. Those mounts compared to the new mounts were a half inch difference per side. Which is about the one inch I needed for the holes to line up. Maybe I'll put the engine in as close as I can, bolt the trans up to it and let the weight of it line up the holes. I still think i'm scrapping the header install though.
     
  8. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

    tim try and bolt motor mounts to motor put frame mounts on the motor mounts, then drop it in and see where you sit, the only thing i can think of that it may sit up too high with the new motor mounts.if that is the case when you bolt your fan on and put your schroud in the fan may hit the top of schroud.there is more of a gap at the bottom of my schroud than at the top on mine now with old mounts.i talked with poston yesterday and they said they have frame mounts for a 68-72 skylark also fit 73 -77 century and regal.would it be worth while to try them.maybe the angle on the frame mounts is different. dont know.sure hope it works out for yah.exhaust tommorrow for me.carb next week.then running by winter. hehe.good time to park it in my brothers shed.see yah Ray
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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2011
  9. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    Thats funny, when I ordered the Poston pad & mount kit for a 73 Century they came with directions for 68-72. I called and asked why and was told, "Same thing" So when a friend gave me the Centurion O.E. frame pads I checked the two against one another. Low and behold they matched up. So I sold the Postons to a board member for less than I paid, cause after all, the Centurions were free to me. Then I ordered parts from T/A Perf. (spreading the wealth) picking up another set of rubber motor mounts at this time.
     
  10. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

    tim i just got off the phone with tony at poston he told me that the big buicks should have different frame mounts.are you sure you measured the ones accurately , like height , and the angle at top of mounts.im tempted to order some for myself just to see if there the same as mine.he said you can return them if they dont work.let me know what you turn up with. thanks Ray
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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2011
  11. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    I sold the set I first bought to another board member. (Poston PE276B) is what I ordered. The parts came in without part numbers on them (except for the MM) but with a 68-72 install slip. Concerned about this I called right away. Talked to the woman who answers the phone, she in turn asked the "guys in the back" if I recieved the right parts. Someone told her "yes", so I let it go. In the mean time my friend gave me the Centurions pads. I liked the original look of stamped versus cast frame pads so I sold the kit at a loss because the other pads (Centurion) were free. Don't get me wrong I'm not giving up. Where theres a will theres a way. I'll figure something out. I always have. If the angle is a problem I'll use body / control arm shims under the bolts to adjust it. Matter of fact, if I could pry myself off the :Comp: I'd be out in the garage right now :laugh:
     
  12. dcm422

    dcm422 Well-Known Member

    According to my 1975 parts book frame pads are as follows:
    73-75 "A" body (Century) are p/n 1237972/1237973
    71-73 "B C E" (includes Centurion) are p/n 1236486/1236487
    74-75 "B C E" (includes Centurion) are p/n 1243448/1243449
    All 71-75 455 cars use the same motor mount p/n 1236965

    The net of this is that Centurion pads aren't the same as Century ones.
    Also, if they gave you 68-72 GS pads, they will be wrong too unless they were modified in some way. Looks like you need pads from a 73-75 455 Century/Gran Sport in order to get things to work.

    Hope this helps,
    Mark
     
  13. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    NO it doesn't help, MR. bearer of bad news! :laugh: One thing I have found out about the auto industry though is that the numbers don't always matter. Some things do interchange. I'm not saying the pads will but... Take for instance FORD outer axle shafts for the earlier Dana 50 IFS. Although Ford parts guys will tell you the part/number is discontinued and you're SOL. The part is just under a different "newer" number because of changes made to the yoke. Ford cut an extra snap ring groove in it and added a different slinger. Knock off the slinger and PRESTO...same part! This goes for other front axle parts and mfgs. as well. So take notice 4x4 owners. A little FYI
     
  14. wildcat510

    wildcat510 Active Member

    a little help

    I have some photos of frame pads from a 74 455 Regal that I used to put the 455 in my 77 Regal. Will try to find the photos and get them posted......Dimensionally they are different than the 72 and prior A-body mounts. If I remember right they are offset front to back about a half inch. Meaning that the engine sits further back in relation to the mounts. The bolt pattern and thickness is the same as for the 68-72's. When I did my install, I used old (engine side) mounts. I believe that the engine side of the mount has two sets of holes, one for the big cars and one for the A-body cars.
     
  15. wildcat510

    wildcat510 Active Member

    photos...

    Hope these help......By the way, yes the mounts did come off a 74 Regal 455. This is a car I bought and drove a couple of years and then parted out. Wish I had it back now. I did find the build sheet when I parted it. It was a factory 455 car.
    Thanks
    Fred
     

    Attached Files:

  16. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    Thanks Fred. That does help a little. They look very similar to mine from the pictures, although dimensions would help, but mine seem like they might be a little "higher" off the frame. Whereas yours look a bit "flatter" As in the center mount hole would be closer to the frame. This may be where my problem lies. It makes sence anyways if you were to see how my engine sits when put down in the cradle. The Centurions (where I got my pads) cradle must be wider than a Centurys. Looks like I either need to find Century/Regal 455 O.E. pads or buy someones correct aftermarket cast pads.
     
  17. wildcat510

    wildcat510 Active Member

    Sorry I don't have dimensions for the pads and it would be difficult to measure them as they are on my car. I did compare them to the stock mounts on my 70 GS and a set of repro cast mounts and they are identical dimension-wise with the exception of the bolt holes being offset. The only way I can describe it is if you use the 73-4 frame pads, the engine will sit back about a half inch compared to the 69-72 pads. The "bolt pattern is identical, the hole for the long mounting bolt is in the same relative location to the pad mounting holes. Or....if you mounted either the 69-72 or the 73-4 frame pads in the same location, the thru bolts would be the same distance apart.
    Hope this helps...
    Fred
     
  18. wildcat510

    wildcat510 Active Member

    dimensions

    I just measured the mounts on my 70 which conveniently has the engine out of it.......
    -Looking at the front face of the frame pad, the center of the bolt hole is 1" from the surface of the frame crossmember as close as I can measure. This dimension should also hold for the correct 73-4 frame pads.
    -Again as best I can measure, the distance across the engine bay from mounting bolt to mounting bolt is 19". Since I am using the same upper mounts in my 77, this dimension should also be correct.
    -Atached is a photo of a upper mount, note that it has two sets of holes. I am sure that I have run into mounts with only one set of holes. The lower holes ore the ones I am using on my 77.
    -Someone mentioned that the frame pad is bolted to the upeermost furthest forward holes in the frame crossmember, That is also correct as far as what I am using.
    Hope some of this helps
    Fred
     

    Attached Files:

  19. speed70

    speed70 Henderson Driveline, Grafton OH

    My PICS

    Fred, mine measure 17 1/8 centerline to centerline across and about an inch and a quarter from center hole to frame. They are definitly in the right frame holes though. This must be the problem, on Ray's Century too. Some where on here (I think "junkyard jewels") some board members have taken pictures of junked 73 GS's in AZ or NV I think it was. I wonder if their watching this post. If the cars are still there and they could snag em for me? Hummm! I'll put up some pics of the pads I have on right now...Tim
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

    mounts

    tim i am in process of buying mounts from a 73 gransport,i will compare them to mine on my car now.hopiing they will be different than mine that are on car. exhaust is on mine,i hope changing these mounts now will not hurt where exhaust is now. cant be off by that much.hope to have frame mounts by end of week, then i can tell you for sure if they are different.wish i new this before i put mine in.see yah Ray
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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2011

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