1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

A/C disconnect...

Discussion in 'Interior City' started by WQ59B, Apr 16, 2021.

  1. WQ59B

    WQ59B Well-Known Member

    General question : pulling my '64 O/T car's motor for rebuilding. Has factory A/C. Low pressure port hisses softly, so maybe there's vestigial freon left - years ago when it last ran the A/C didn't cool.

    Thinking before I throw too much money out the window on my (unplanned) rebuild, I would just not re-hook up the A/C. Also, want to freshen up the engine bay while the motor is out, and the hoses/compressor sure would be better on a shelf for that.

    Is it advisable to disconnect & remove the compressor & the hose to the condenser and to the blower? Would I then get a suitable tight cap for each to keep the system relatively clean? I assume because of the age of the system and the last time it ran, I'd be looking at a full bore test/service anyway if I wanted to run the A/C.

    Or should I just put everything back in its place?
     
  2. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    At least put tape over all the connections. When you put it back together replace all 0 rings with blue or green type. When it’s filled there are some changes you have to make to use R134. Chances are good some parts are no good or leak. Old AC systems are not for the faint or the poor. Just not worth it in my opinion for how much they get used.
     
    WQ59B likes this.
  3. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Unless you live in a state where it is above 75 degrees most of the year. When I was looking nation wide last year, I wouldn't give a second thought to a car without AC, or that had all of the AC parts removed. My 69's currently does not work, but has everything there to either fix or upgrade it this summer.
     
    WQ59B likes this.
  4. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I’ve dealt with old AC systems for years. I came to the conclusion they just are not worth the time, money and effort.
     
  5. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    Well, down here in sunny Florida we have great cruising and car shows all throughout the year. On the opposite side of the spectrum, I could never, enjoy my GS without a functioning A/C system. We have folks down here who still can make a factory system work properly with Vintage Air always an option. BTW, it will be about 93 here today with possible records beaning set in several areas. :D
     
    FLGS400 likes this.
  6. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    If u owned an LS6 1970 Chevelle, which could not be ordered with a/c, what would u do in Fla summer heat? Install Vintage Air or just wind down the windows?
     
  7. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Mark,

    IF the vehicle came from the factory with A/C, which is kinda rare for '59, personally I would leave the system in place & NOT dis-connect anything. There is NO WAY that you can tape up/plug anything that will NOT get moisture into the system I don't are how well you seal it up. IF you do remove it when in time you would like to get the system working again you will end up with more more work to get the system up & running again.
    In the past I did a complete restoration on my Dad's '72 Skylark. I took the system completely out of the vehicle with everything still hooked up. Didn't crack a line or fitting. Put it all back together & only had to add less than a pound of R12 & we were back in business.

    Tom T.
     
  8. FLGS400

    FLGS400 Gold Level Contributor

    Those are sweet.

    Honestly, I would probably not drive it unless it was cooler out (below 75F). I have a 74 Malibu, that is a factory no-AC/manual trans car. If it wasn't for the fact that it has been in my family since it was new, I would have probably sold it years ago. If and when I ever get around to putting it back on the road, I will get a Vintage Air or similar system to put in it.
     

Share This Page