So... my '63 Special is my first carburated car, and I need some help. The car is running rich and a bit crappy, and the plugs are black, I can smell it, and I think it has something to do with the 2 mixture screws on the front of the carb. How would I go about adjusting something like this? I am afraid to touch anything unless I am absolutely sure on what to do. I was also told the choke may need to be adjusted? Sorry I sound so noobish, but all my cars have been FI'ed. :laugh: All I know is it is this carb - Any help is appreciated. Also... would having a aftermarket cam make the carb adjustments different? I think it has one.
You really need a vacuum gauge to do this. I start out by screwing them in all the way and then backing them out 1 1/2 turns each side. Connect the gauge to manifold vacuum and adjust the screws to the highest vacuum reading you can attain. You can also do this by ear. As you adjust the screws, the idle should go up. Adjust to the highest idle and then adjust the idle back down a bit The choke blade on top of the carb should be fully open when the engine is warmed up. If its partially closed, it will run crappy. It could be the reason your plugs look so bad. While your under there, it might be a good time to check the dwell and adjust the timing.
Hmm... I forgot to mention it has a Pertronix ignition conversion, as well as a Flame thrower coil. Not sure if that makes a difference.
Is the choke staying closed after the engine warms up? Is the carburetor flooding? Even if the idle mixture needles were misadjusted, it wouldn't blacken the plugs.
Choke opens up when the car warms up. I got the idle set at 525 per the manual. It seems to have a miss though, but all plugs are clean and gapped at .035. I think timing is next, but I am unsure if it has a aftermarket cam or not. The car previously had a intake, 4bbl carb and headers on it before the person I bought it off of.
I don't know anything about that carb, but I noticed that you have a port on the top of your carb that is not plugged or connected to anything,could someone help here and tell if or what it needs.
A simple way to adjust the idle mixture is the lean drop method. First warm up to normal temp and adjust your timing idle speed etc.. then attach a tachometer. Turn in your idle screws, then back them out 1 1/2 turns each. When your idle is stable, spray a light mist of carb cleaner at the top of the carb and observe your idle speed. If your mixture is too rich, the idle speed will drop. If it is too lean, it will increase by more than 50 rpm. When you achieve an increase of 50 rpm, this is considered ideal. Adjust your idle screws 1/2 turn at a time, let the idle stabilize, and repeat until you get the desired result.
If this were me, the FIRST thing I'd do is stand in front of the car--just like where you took the picture from--and grab the fuel inlet with my left hand. Push/Pull forwards and backwards using the fuel tube and fuel inlet as a handle. Does the entire carb wiggle when you do that? I bet it does. Common as dirt. Time to pull the carb off and either overhaul it or tighten up the throttle body-to-main body screws. After that's resolved, I adjust the idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge--much more sensitive than a tachometer. Adjust for best idle vacuum, reset idle speed, re-adjust for best idle vacuum, reset idle speed (if needed) adjust for best idle vacuum (you're probably there already) then turn the screws (clockwise) evenly until you've reduced idle vacuum about 1/4--1/2 inch of vacuum. Reset idle speed again if needed.
WHOA! The carburetor is quite loose. The bolts are nice and tight, yet the carb is VERY loose. I can easily move it with little effort. I sprayed some starting fluid around it, and sure enough it's leaking like crazy. The carb is also leaking a bit, looks like it's time for a rebuild....no big deal, only $11.98 for a rebuild kit. And Pete... the 2x4 is holding the motor, as well as a board and jack under the motor because the trans is out and being rebuilt at the time.
A quick question... I am rebulding the carb right now, and I noticed when I removed the float, it sounds like there is fluid in it. Is it supposed to be in there as a ballast, or does it have a crack I can't see?
Nope, you have a bad float. The fluid you hear in there is gasoline. Any respectable auto parts store should have a float for that carb in stock. Its always a good idea to replace the float as standard practice when rebuilding a carb. Also make sure there is no slop or play in the throttle butterfly bushings.
Not until next spring/summer. My goal now is to get the original carb done, and get the trans back in so I can get it on the road. Next spring the goodies will come. Right now it's all about getting it driving on the road before the snow flies, because it's going right to a storage unit for the winter.
Ok, I am rebuilding it as I type, but I cannot find any info on the float level and float drop. The sheet that came with the Napa kit does not have anything listed for the Buick 215.
Ok, now that I have some time off, it is time to make the final adjustments. I bought a vacuum gauge, and I am ready to get it in tune. Questions - 1. I am told to get this all correct, turn the mixture screws in all the way, and back both out 2 turns to start. 2. I am assuming curb idle (in neutral) is 750? 3. And what is the optimal vacuum I am looking for? Thanks again guys for helping a carb noob. I know everything about my fuel injected cars, but the carb stumped me. :lol:
