1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

Anybody ever shaved off their drip rails? Looking for info on how you did it.

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by r0ckstarr, May 9, 2011.

  1. r0ckstarr

    r0ckstarr Well-Known Member

    My drip rails are pretty bad off. It would take alot of work to repair them. The bead of sealant that was used on them has dried up and rotted away over time.

    Where the bead of sealant was, is now rust and very thin metal. I still have nice thick metal where they meet at the roof, and where they curve upwards. Just where the sealant was, is rusted out. I can push on them and move them. I can see small holes all along them where the sealer used to be.

    So, with good metal right at the roof line, I am now wondering what all is involved in shaving them completely off.

    From my understanding, the drip rail is spot welded to the underside of the roof sheetmetal. The drip rail metal makes up part of the channel for the weather stripping. The metal for the roof overlaps the drip rail and that is why the bead of sealer was used. Am I correct?

    Sort of like this.

    [​IMG]
    driprail by r0ckstarr, on Flickr

    The red line would be where I would be cutting.

    If I shave the drip rails off, then I would have two piece of metal sitting on top of each other, that are no longer joined together. I would have to weld the two together, and round them off with the grinder, sander, file, lots of work, etc.. just to get a nice clean look.

    I've seen cars with the drip rails shaved off before, so I am hoping someone here who has done it has some input and opinions on it.
     
    r0ckstarr, May 9, 2011
    #1
  2. Stampy

    Stampy Well-Known Member

    This guy did it, if I recall. He is a wizard, I am warning you now, once you start reading this thread, you will not stop:

    my 69's resurection/modification
     
    Stampy, May 10, 2011
    #2
  3. Stampy

    Stampy Well-Known Member

    Post #104-114 is the roof rails... now you've got me re-reading the entire thread...
     
    Stampy, May 10, 2011
    #3
  4. bammax

    bammax Well-Known Member

    It's just what you think it is. Cut off the rails, weld it back together, smooth everything out, paint and enjoy. Lots of hourse will be spent on the smoothing out process. And make sure you cut it straight or you'll hate yourself when it comes time to straighten everything out.
     
    bammax, May 10, 2011
    #4
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    If your drip rail stainless is in good shape, and you can get it off without bending or breaking them, I would buy them from you. I posted an in depth tutorial on how to remove them.
     
    CJay, May 10, 2011
    #5
  6. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Got any treats?

    Jason, aren't they the same as the chevelle ones? Iirc, they used to be dirt cheap.
     
    BUICKRAT, May 10, 2011
    #6
  7. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Brian is talking about his Riviera. The drips on a Riv are a total PITA to take off and put back on. The body shop I had my car at destroyed them on me.
     
    CJay, May 10, 2011
    #7
  8. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Got any treats?

    Why does my feeble mind always assume we are talking about a skylark?
     
    BUICKRAT, May 10, 2011
    #8
  9. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Happens a lot. Convenient for the A-body folks, not so much for the rest of us. :grin:

    Some even go so far as to assume '70-'72 and don't bother with that in their sale listings or requests for info!

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, May 10, 2011
    #9
  10. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    C'mon, guys, it's ALL ABOUT A-BODIES, HERE. hee hee hee. Of course, mine's not a '70-'72, so yet again I'm a stepchild. :rant: :laugh:
     
    SteeveeDee, May 10, 2011
    #10
  11. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    :bla:

    Devon
     
    DaWildcat, May 10, 2011
    #11
  12. r0ckstarr

    r0ckstarr Well-Known Member

    They were warped before I ever got the car. I know one has a hard kink in it where someone attempted to remove it, but couldn't get it out of the front piece. The other is just twisted a little. Might be able to be put back into shape. I'll get a picture of them once I start putting everything back together in a few days.

    Yep, thanks for the verification. :TU:
     
    r0ckstarr, May 10, 2011
    #12

Share This Page