will be painting the frame this week ..after reading here and other few places this seems to be what I have concluded my steps will be ....first timer here.. ..sandblasted frame ..clean the frame thoroughly ..go over with 80 grit paper ..clean/wipe acetone ..2 coats of epoxy primer in black ..lil filler where needed ..epoxy again over filler ..1 or 2 coats of primer build in black ..sand smooth ..clean ..2-3 light coats of chassis black paint ..walk away and let it cure.... ...take a few pictures and post on forum for attaboy affect:grin: what you think ??
Only other things I could suggest is rinse the frame thoroughly after blasting, just to get every last bit of grit off and out of it. That and maybe scuff between primer coats with some scotch-brite.
I might frown on water. Gets in cracks and seeps back on paint and cause flash rust as well. Compressed air would be better for blowing off dust. Also check price on having it powder coated. I got $500 quote. Might be more cost effective and less work for you.
Dave ...yes I understand ....I have all the equipment and want that "I did it myself" affect.....ou: yea...no water ..I already degreased the thing and did the powerwash thing ..
Here's what I did on a old 1954 Truck frame. It turned our great. ..sandblasted frame ** Use a metal prep (acid wash) with a metal prep pad (Brown Scotch Brite) ..rinse the frame thoroughly with water. The acid will flash the frame, dry it in the sun and with compressed air. I used Eastwoods Coorless (Used to be called) Now I think it's Anti Rust (In red) I used red so I would make sure that I'm getting good coverage. Chassis Black ...take a few pictures and post on forum for attaboy affect:grin: I think there's more than one way. But I'd say that the acid was was key. Rich
Sound like a plan!:TU: But follow the sandblast with the DA sander and 80 grit, and THEN clean. And twirl that frame around on your engine stand 'rotisserie' while blowing the sand out. I've also found that if I paint with black paint outside on a sunny, hot summer day, the paint dries too fast and doesn't flow out as well. So a shady shot, or inside is recommended:bglasses: Have fun, and celebrate when you're done:beer
Why are you putting build primer on it??? It will only serve to fill in the stamping detail, etc that was on there originally. If you feel like you want to sand on something then a few good coats of epoxy can be followed up with some light sanding. I would go directly from epoxy to your topcoat....skip the build primer. If this was a hotrod frame or a custom I see your point or if the frame is heavily pitted. If you are doing a resto it serves no purpose and doesn't add anything protection-wise. Save yourself the time and expense and eliminate this step. If this is a relatively clean frame then preserve the factory/manufacturing detail.
^ I was under the assumption that the epoxy primer would not hide scratches .... so a few light coats of primer build to sand things smooth would be ok .... pits on the frame ?..just a square inch area up front frame is very good shape otherwise 1st time painter here.....I'm not building for show ....I'm trying to go for longevity and are you saying the paint would stick better dirctly over the epoxy better..? makes sense it would ... so paint over epoxy and skip the build prime......will do btw...after my last coat of epoxy primer .....do I deed to scuff before paint ...??? .
Some day I will be restoring mine and have always felt concerned with paint coverage on the inside. I also agree with the powder coating option, especially for the durability. Of course, price is always a factor. How has everyone else dealt with the inside of the frame? Steve
1) Light scratches??--where?? REMEMBER---what you think is a scratch may likely be a result of the assembly/manufacturing process....leave 'em alone. If you have some areas, for example, on the underside of the front X-Member, then EPOXY first, then a little dab of filler or JBWeld, sand and spot prime with epoxy AGAIN to seal the "repair" off. 2) Again--don't waste the $$ and effort on build primer. Epoxy IS a primer...so your topcoat will stick to it just fine. 3) I've said this before on other threads...GET THE DATA/INFO SHEET ON THE PRODUCT YOU ARE SPRAYING from the paint supplier or download it from the manufacturer's website!!! - This tells you everything you need to know about the paint. Mixing ratios, which thinners you can use if called for. IN YOUR CASE--it will give the RECOAT WINDOW and likely specify that the epoxy be SCUFFED before it is recoated if it has set XXXX amount of time since applied. -At a minimum I would probably scuff it with a light brown or grey Scotchbrite pad before topcoating it if you aren't topcoating it as soon as the instructions say you can (after spraying the epoxy). Get the instruction/info/application sheet...the paint suppliers usually have these in the store (places that sell auto body supplies to body shops). Keep a folder with these in it and you will have a quick reference guide so you won't have to remember different mixing ratios, etc for each type paint. 4) Small pitting area on frame...same thing....a little dab of filler or JB Weld AFTER FIRST APPLYING EPOXY. Sand and finished area with some more epoxy as you'll likely cut through to bare metal when sanding the pitted area. The epoxy spot area will again seal up these cut-throughs and seal off the top of whatever filler you use. WHAT EPOXY are you planning on using? Edit: Sorry to repeat what you first listed already....Your plan for dealing with the spot areas and recoating is already in place!
Patton ......I will be using that DP 90 black epoxy primer...and then eastwoods extreme chassis black satin black ... I have sandblasted as far in as possible even through all the side holes ....I have run a flexible wand through there and 2-3 coats of thinned out rust encapsulator from eastwood only bcs of possible spots I missed ..otherwise the outer frame will be eopxy primed.,... .the eastowwod rust encapsulator is not really recommended for bare metal ..I think I have 100% coverage of inside areas...
Rich ..I see your point ...but I'm thinking of future knicks and scrapes ..this way they wont show up as much on frame ....if it was on body of car then yes..
Now I see your point, LOL I have only used the regular Chassis Black and I can tell you that the finish, once fully cured is really durable. I would think that the extreme is is better. Rich
I hope it is ...:grin: I was planning on spraying eastwoods encapsulator over bare metal first then the chassis black ...but after visiting eastwoods forum ...I found out that the pro's over there suggest epoxy prime over bare metal and not the encapsulator...its primarily made for over rusted areas....
Yeah--stick with the black primer even if you are spraying Chassis Black..as you mentioned hides chips better. Down the road...when you start working on your brake system, master cylinder, etc just be aware that none of this paint will stand up to brake fluid. At a minimum it will stain or dull the area that brake fluid gets on. Let it sit longer and it will take the paint and primer off. Doesn't matter what they say in the catalogs, etc about being "resistant" to certain fluids. "Resistant" is a term they use rather loosely. So...use LOTS of plastic sheeting, towels, etc all around the areas you are dealing with brake fluid. Seems no matter how careful you are you end up getting some small drops that splash out when you are filling the master cylinder. Silicone brake fluid is an alternative but I am seeing less and less people recommend it as it has its own set of problems. I would stick with a good brand of regular brake fluid and just be careful when pouring it, bleeding, etc. Good luck...it sounds like you have a well thought-out plan and the end product should look real good. :TU:
Rex just make the first coat is an etching primer it will bite into the metal and helpeverything on top stay put. If the epoxy has the same effect thats cool.Forget sanding in between coats,plan on a late night or have enough time to get it all done at once. Its been pretty hot lately so it should dry fairly quick. I,m planning to stop by wensday if your gonna be around I wanna see you work.
Don't put an etch primer on there if you are going to shoot epoxy........ Or--ASK THE PAINT SUPPLY PLACE if PPG HAS AN ETCH PRIMER that they say is compatible with DP90. Better yet....get the sheets I mentioned and it will list what coatings can be put under the DP90. The DP90 will stick just fine to clean bare metal.
etch primer scares me ...only according to what I have been reading of certain paints not sticking or wrong stuff put on ...... even though some pro's preach the stuff and have no issues with it ...we not pro yet cpk ...stop on by ...bring your scuba gear ...we sandblasting...hurry up befor I get out of mood and not touch anything for 6 months..:laugh: btw ...I cant find my core support ...did you take /borrow it ?? Cpk...from you I need some actual spray gun set up lessons ....instead of trial and error ...painting in a few weeks ..plenty of dust clean up.....:rant:
